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used. One-way fares (€64-84) are cheapest if booked online. In both directions, departures
are generally between 15:30 and 17:30 and arrive late the next morning.
While passengers can nearly always get on, reservations are wise in summer and easy
online. You can reserve a seat for €15; cabins (2 beds) go for €40-75. The cafeteria serves
bad food at reasonable prices. Upon arrival in France, buses and taxis connect you to your
Paris-bound train (Irish Ferries: Dublin tel. 0818-300-400, www.irishferries.com ) .
Dublin Bay
Dangling from opposite ends of Dublin Bay's crescent-shaped shoreline, Dun Laoghaire
(dun LEERY) and Howth (rhymes with “growth”) are two peas in a pod. They offer quiet,
cheap lodging alternatives to Dublin. Both have easy DART light-rail access to the city
center, just a 25-minute ride away. Each houses its only worthwhile sightseeing options
in pillbox martello (masonry) towers. And they were each once home to a famous Irish
writer: James Joyce in Dun Laoghaire and W. B. Yeats in Howth. The fundamental dif-
ference between the two is that Dun Laoghaire (south of Dublin) is a ferry port to Wales,
while Howth (north of Dublin) is closer to the airport.
Dun Laoghaire
Dun Laoghaire is seven miles south of Dublin. This snoozy suburb, with a ferry terminal
for Wales and easy connections to downtown Dublin, is a convenient small-town base for
exploring the big city. But as the majority of ferry crossings have moved to Dublin Port,
this town has gotten even quieter in recent years, and it no longer has a TI.
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