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rest of Dublin, it really is the best place for tourists and locals (who come here to watch
the tourists). For locations, see the “Dublin Restaurants” map on here .
Gogarty's Pub has top-notch sessions downstairs daily at 14:00 and upstairs nightly
from 21:00 (at corner of Fleet and Anglesea, tel. 01/671-1822). Use this pub as a kickoff
foryourTemple Barevening.It'salsowheretheTraditional IrishMusical PubCrawlstarts
(see here ) .
A 10-minute hike up the river west of Temple Bar takes you to a twosome with a local
and less-touristy ambience. The Brazen Head, which lays claim to being the oldest pub
in Dublin, is a hit for an early dinner and late live music (nightly from 21:30), with at-
mospheric rooms and a courtyard perfect for balmy evenings. They also host “Food, Folk,
and Fairies” evenings, which, even at €46, are a great value. You get a hearty four-course
meal punctuated between courses by soulful Irish history and fascinating Irish mytho-
logy (March-Dec daily 19:00-22:00, Jan-Feb Thu and Sat only; by south end of Father
Matthew Bridge, 2 blocks west of Christ Church Cathedral at 20 Bridge Street; pub tel.
01/677-9549, show tel. 01/218-8555, www.irishfolktours.com ) . O'Shea's Merchant Pub,
just across the street, is encrusted in memories of County Kerry football heroes. It's filled
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