Aruba - Adventure Guide to Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao - page 83

San Nicolas
The rich aroma of oil once again hangs over Aruba's second largest town.
At one time, the world's largest refinery produced crude oil from Venezuela
in San Nicolas, but a world-wide glut closed that plant in 1985. Texas-
based Coastal Oil bought out the former owners and reopened in 1990, but
by that time the entire island had turned from oil to tourism as its eco-
nomic mainstay. Today, San Nicolas is looking pretty good as a slow-paced
free-thinking village. New residents are moving in, building lovely homes,
and demanding more creature comforts, such as restaurants, shops, and
churches.
Aruba's Carnival got its start
here, and each year the streets
ring with music as costumed res-
idents from all over the island
parade through the streets
behind tambú bands. The rest of
the year, the town is quieter, and
tourists enjoy wandering the
uncrowded streets to view the
1950-ish art deco buildings.
Charlie's Bar is unquestion-
ably the most famous landmark and has been drawing a crowd since 1941.
Take time to have a drink and look at the museum of jumbled treasure that
covers every inch of the restaurant and bar. Scuba divers, fishermen,
sportsmen, and entertainers have left a half-century of memorabilia stuck
to the walls and ceiling. 297-584-5086.

Savaneta
Heading back towards Oranjestad along the west coast, you'll pass
through the village of Savaneta, the island's first Dutch settlement and
original capital. Today, the town is populated by fishermen and tourists
stop for a sunset drink or dinner at the popular Brisas del Mar and
Flying Fishbone restaurants (see pages 133). The new-age Cosmos
Day Spa has a loyal following among those who enjoy pampered beach-
side seclusion.

Did You Know? While driving through the old set-
tlements south of Oranjestad, watch for cas di torto
homes that date back 150 years. These traditional
Aruban houses were constructed of mud-and-grass
adobe smeared on supports made of braided
branches. Most of the originals have been destroyed
by time and weather, but a new cas is being built us-
ing authentic techniques and materials on a dirt
road near Boca Prins in the national park.