Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
INTRODUCTION TOLAOS
Oftenoverlookedinfavourofitsbetter-knownneighbours,landlockedLaosremainsone
ofSoutheastAsia'smostbeguilingdestinations.CaughtinthemiddleofthetwoIndoch-
ina wars and long isolated from the rest of the world, the country retains a slow, rustic
charm, and its people - incredibly laidback and friendly, even by Asian standards - are
undoubtedly one of the highlights of any visit.
Laos's lifeline is the Mekong river, which runs the length of the country, at times bisecting it
and at others serving as a boundary with Thailand; the rugged Annamite Mountains historic-
ally have acted as a buffer against Vietnam, with which Laos shares its eastern border. Most
people visit the country as part of a wider trip in the region, often entering from Thailand and
following the Mekong further south. However, Laos alone rewards further exploration, and
with a little more time it's not hard to feel like you're visiting places where few Westerners
venture. From the forest-clad mountains of the north to the islands of the far south, there's
enough here to keep you occupied for weeks, and still feel as though you'd barely scratched
the surface.
For such a small country, Laos is surprisingly diverse in terms of its people. Colourfully
dressed hill tribes populate the higher elevations, while in the lowland river valleys, coconut
palms sway over the Buddhist monasteries of the ethnic Lao. The country also retains some
of the French influence it absorbed during colonial days: the familiar smell of freshly baked
bread and coffee mingles with exotic local aromas in morning markets, and many of the old
shop houses of its larger towns now (appropriately) house French restaurants.
The effects of the wars, and of its communist government, are unmistakable - it remains com-
pletely inadvisable to strike out into the countryside without following paths for fear of UXO
(unexploded ordnance) - and the country remains heavily dependent on its neighbours for all
manner of products; indeed in some parts of the country, the local markets stock more Chinese
and Vietnamese goods than Lao. However, whether you're riding through the countryside on
a rickety old bus crammed with sacks of rice and blaring Lao pop music, sailing down the
