Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
dishes usually encompass variations on fried rice and noodle dishes, often with a few Lao,
Chinese or Thai options intended to be eaten with sticky or steamed rice.
Tourist restaurants in larger centres usually offer a hotchpotch of cuisine - often encom-
passing standard Lao dishes like larp and mók pa alongside sandwiches, pastas and steaks.
The most expensive restaurants in Vientiane and Luang Prabang generally serve French
cuisine, often in very sophisticated, un-Lao surroundings, but at very reasonable prices - a
meal for two, including wine, is unlikely to stretch past $40.
When it comes to paying , the normal sign language will be readily understood in most res-
taurants, or simply say “ khãw sék dae ” (“the bill, please”). You'll generally only be able to
use credit cards at upscale establishments in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Tipping is only
expected in top-end restaurants - ten percent should suffice.
What to eat
So that a variety of tastes can be enjoyed during the course of a meal, Lao meals are eaten
communally, with each dish being served at once, rather than in courses. The dishes - typic-
ally a fish or meat dish and soup, with a plate of fresh vegetables such as string beans, lettuce,
basil and mint served on the side - are placed in the centre of the table, and each person helps
him- or herself to only a little at a time. When ordering a meal, if there are two of you it's
common to order two or three dishes, plus your own individual servings of rice, while three
diners would order three or four different dishes.
The staple of Lao meals is rice , with noodles a common choice for breakfast or as a snack.
Most meals are enjoyed with stickyrice ( khào niaw ), which is served in a lidded wicker bas-
ket ( típ khào ) and eaten with the hands. Although it can be tricky at first, it's fairly easy to
pick up the proper technique if you watch the Lao around you. Grab a small chunk of rice
from the basket, press it into a firm wad with your fingers and then dip the rice ball into one
of the dishes. Replace the lid of the típ khào when you have finished eating or you will be
offered more rice.
Plain steamed white rice ( khào jâo ) is eaten with a fork and spoon - the spoon and not the
fork is used to deliver the food to your mouth. If you're eating a meal with steamed white
rice, it's polite to only put a small helping of each dish onto your rice at a time. Chopsticks
( mâi thu ) are reserved for noodles , the main exception being Chinese-style rice served in
bowls.
If you are diningwithaLaofamily as a guest, wait until you are invited to eat by your host
before taking your first mouthful. While dipping a wad of sticky rice into the main dish, try
not to let grains of rice fall into it, and dip with your right hand only. Resist the temptation
to continue eating after the others at the table have finished. Custom dictates that a little food
should be left on your plate at the end of the meal.
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