BASICS - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 46

Cross-river ferries
Clunky metal car ferries and pirogues - dug-out wooden skiffs propelled by poles, paddles
or tiny engines - are both useful means of fording rivers in the absence of a bridge. Both
leave when they have a sufficient number of passengers and usually charge around 5000K,
unless you're taking a vehicle across, in which case you can expect to pay 10,000-20,000K.
If you don't want to wait, you can always hire a pirogue. In the outback, fishermen can usu-
ally be persuaded to ferry you across to the opposite bank for a small sum.
Planes
Government-owned LaoAirlines ( laoairlines.com ) is the country's main domestic carrier.
Its safety record, which had been steadily improving, has taken a knock again after an acci-
dent in October 2013, when a Lao Airlines turboprop travelling from Vientiane hit bad weath-
er, plunging into the Mekong as it approached Pakse, killing all 49 people on board.
Since the accident, the airline has continued to operate as normal, and it still has the most
comprehensive domestic schedule by far, with flights from Vientiane to Oudomxai, Luang
Namtha, Luang Prabang, Pakse and Xieng Khuang (for the Plain of Jars).
Laos also has two private airlines. Lao Central Airlines ( flylaocentral.com ) has a
small fleet flying between Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Bangkok. Lao Skyway ( laosky-
way.com ) flies from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha, Oudomxai, Sam Neua,
Sayaboury and Boun Neua (for Phongsali).
If you're travelling on any of these routes during the peak season it's wise to book ahead .
Sample one-way fares are Vientiane to Luang Prabang $60; Vientiane to Pakse $104; Vien-
tiane to Oudomxai $230; Vientiane to Luang Namtha $235; Vientiane to Xieng Khuang $190.
Trains
At the time of writing, the only train line operating in Laos is the 3.5km section of track
connecting Vientiane with Nong Khai, Thailand. In the race to develop Laos and extract
its wealth of natural resources, controversial country-spanning tracks are being planned,
however, and by the end of the decade both Vientiane and Savannakhet will be connected to
China and Vietnam by high-speed lines.
Vehicle and bike rental
Renting a privatevehicle is expensive, but is sometimes the only way you'll be able to get to
certain spots. Self-drive is an option, and cars can be rented from a couple of agencies in Vi-
entiane only. However, it's usually easier and cheaper to hire a caranddriver . Tour agencies
will rent out air-conditioned vans and 4WD pick-up trucks as well as provide drivers. Prices
are inflated by the rates paid by UN organizations, and can be as high as $80-100 per day,
sometimes more if you're hiring a car to head upcountry from Vientiane. When settling on a