Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
GETTING AROUND
GettingaroundonLaos'stransportsystemisanadventureinitself,whatwithitsbarely
seaworthy boats,agedjalopies with hard seats andhot,crowded buses. Don'tbefooled
by maps and distance charts - seemingly short rides can take hours, as tired vehicles
slow to a crawl in their uphill battle against muddy, mountainous roads. Take heart
thoughinknowingthatmanyvisitorshavetheirbestencounterswiththepeopleofLaos
amid the adversity of a bad bus ride.
Laos's road system has improved significantly over the past few years. Roads have been up-
graded, new highways have been built, and getting around is easier than ever, though often
still challenging. Keep in mind that a newly graded and paved road this year may get no
maintenance, and after just two or even one rainy season the road will revert to being nothing
but a potholed track. Some roads are only built to last a season, being washed away each year
by the monsoon.
The country's main thoroughfare is
Route 13
, which stretches from Luang Prabang to
the Cambodian border, passing through Vientiane, Savannakhet and Pakse. Route 13 sees a
steady flow of bus traffic, and it's usually possible to flag down a vehicle during daylight
hours provided it's not already full. Off main roads like Route 13, you'll encounter a wide
range of road conditions - from freshly paved carriageways to bone-rattling, potholed tracks.
With the ever-improving road conditions,
buses
have largely supplanted
rivertravel
, the tra-
ditional means of getting around.
You only need to travel for a week or two in Laos before you realize that
timetables
are
irrelevant: planes, buses and boats leave on a whim and estimated times of arrival are point-
less. Wherever you go in Laos, the driver does not seem to be in any hurry to arrive.
For journeys mentioned throughout this guide we've tried to give an idea of how long they
will take in hours and minutes. Given the poor condition of many roads and buses, as well as
the many unscheduled stops en route, all travel times should be taken as best estimates.
