The far south - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 376

DAM AND BLAST: THE XE KONG
The Xe Kong is one of Laos's great rivers, starting high in the Annamite Mountains
from the eastern flanks of the 2500-metre-high Mount Atouat and flowing southwestwards
around the southern edge of the Bolaven Plateau. It enters Cambodia via the Xe Pian
NBCA, eventually joining the Mekong river in that country, north of Stung Treng.
During the Second Indochina War, US aircraft struck at the threads of the Ho Chi Minh
Trail running parallel to the river, hoping to disrupt the endless tide of men and supplies
streaming southwards. Bombs invariably wound up in the river and the resulting explo-
sions sent scores of fish floating belly-up to the surface, unintentional war reparations
quickly collected by villagers living amid a battlefield. Today's depleted fish catches are
still blamed on the war, but more modern fishing equipment has surely had an impact, as
has the use of explosives for catching fish, a technique that was utilized by Vietnamese
soldiers during the war and remains part of the Cambodian fisherman's arsenal along some
stretches of the river. One victim of such high-impact methods, the Irrawaddy dolphin ,
until the 1980s a frequent visitor to Attapeu's maze of rivers in the rainy season, now rarely
visits these waters.
Another major threat to the Xe Kong is the region's increasing reliance on hydropower ;
at the time of writing up to seventeen dams were being planned along the river and its tribu-
taries. Critics have warned that unless these projects are correctly managed, forests and fish
stocks could be decimated, with serious consequences for the twenty or so ethnic groups
living in the surrounding area, whose way of life is dependent on a healthy river.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: XEKONG
By bus Buses to and from Pakse and other towns around the Bolaven Plateau operate from
the bus station, about 4km out of town; a handful of tuk-tuks await arriving buses and will
ferry you into the centre for 10,000K.
Destinations Attapeu (2 daily; 2hr); Pakse (8 daily; 2-4hr); Salavan (at least 1 daily; 4hr);
Vientiane (8 daily; 15hr).
INFORMATION
Tourist information The best place for tourist information is Phathip Restaurant , south of
the post office on the road running closest to the river.
Services The Lao Development Bank, which changes money, is east of the post office. Fur-
ther east still, around the market, you'll find plenty of ATMs.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Phathip Restaurant Near the post office. The best place for delicious Vietnamese food, in-
cluding vegetable-packed (but very salty) noodle soups (10,000K). The menu - in English,