Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
astery
that has been restored to reflect the status of the village's most important part-time
inhabitant. The wat is not all that remarkable, except perhaps for the collection of artefacts
in the main temple. Sharing the altar with rows of Buddha images is a gargoyle-like object,
actually a
somasutra
from an ancient Khmer temple, used to channel lustral water onto an
enshrined Shivalinga. Next to the altar is a display case filled with small Buddha images and
other dusty relics.
Tham Phou Khiaw
Pushing on from Ban Houa Khong, follow the road east to Ban Dong and then south to
Muang Khong, a journey totalling 13km. On arriving at the northern outskirts of Muang
Khong, just before reaching the high school, you pass a trail bordered with white stones,
which leads to
Tham Phou Khiaw
, or Green Mountain Cave. Although it has gained quite
a reputation among travellers, based no doubt on the obscurity of its location, the cave is
no Lost City of Gold: in reality, it's a shallow grotto sheltering one termite-riddled Buddha
and a number of clay pots containing crude votive tablets, each with an image of the Buddha
pressed into it. Unless you're here during the Lao New Year celebrations, when islanders visit
the site to make offerings and ritually bathe the images, or the Bun Bang Fai festival, a month
later, when bamboo skyrockets are launched in a rain-making ritual, it's not really worth the
effort.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: DON KHONG
By boat
Boats dock in the middle of Muang Khong, near
Done Khong Guesthouse
. Boats
to Don Khon and Don Det depart from the same spot daily at 8.30am (1hr 30min) and cost
40,000K; arrange through the guesthouses the day before.
By bus or sawngthaew
A total of six public buses to Don Khong, as well as numerous
sawngthaews (3hr; 50,000K), leave from Pakse's Southern Bus Station daily, stopping at Ban
Hat Xai Khoun to allow passengers to cross the Mekong by boat. The chances of getting a
public bus from Ban Hat Xai Khoun back to Pakse are pretty slim, but if you want to chance
your arm, cross the river by pirogue (15,000K) and wait for one to pass by on Route 13.
Bytouristbus
A more reliable option is to take one of the tourist buses operated by compan-
ies in Pakse and Champasak (both 70,000K). Often, the tickets include the boat transfer from
Ban Hat Xai Khoun to Muang Khong, but check when buying. Leaving Don Khong is easy;
almost every guesthouse in Muang Khong sells tickets to major cities in Laos, Thailand and
Cambodia, with prices including boat transfers.
INFORMATION
Tourist office
There's a tourist office just south of
Done Khong Guesthouse
(Mon-Fri
8-11.30am & 2-4.30pm). Staff can provide timetables and book onward transport for you.
Internet
Most guesthouses offer free wi-fi. Otherwise, try the internet café just north of
V
Mala
(200K/minute).
