Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
men and the other for women. Archeologists are sceptical though, pointing out that stone was
reserved for constructing places of worship, and, even if this hadn't been the case, the vast
interiors of both buildings were roofless and would have afforded little shelter. The structure
on the right as you approach is the best preserved. Its carved relief of Shiva and his consort
Uma riding the sacred bull Nandi is the best to be found on either building.
The stairways
As the path begins to climb, you come upon jagged stairways of sandstone blocks. Plumeria
(frangipani) trees line the way, giving welcome shade and littering the worn stones with del-
icate blooms known in Lao as
dok champa
, the national flower of Laos. At the foot of the
second stairway is a shrine to the legendary founder of Wat Phou. The statue is much ven-
erated and, during the annual pilgrimage, is bedecked with offerings of flowers, incense and
candles. When and why this one statue has come to be venerated in such a fashion is un-
known, and once again, local folklore and archeological record diverge.
Continuing up the stairs, you come upon the final set of ruins, surrounded by mammoth
mango trees. This uppermost temple contains the finest examples of
decorativestonelintels
in Laos. Although much has been damaged or is missing, sketches made by Georges Trai-
pont, a French surveyor who visited the temple complex in the waning years of the nineteenth
century, show the temple to have changed little since then. On the exterior walls flanking the
east entrance are the images of
dvarapalas
and
devatas
, or female divinities, in high relief.
On the altar, inside the sanctuary, stand
four Buddha images
, looking like a congress of be-
nevolent space aliens. Doorways on each side of them lead to an empty room with walls of
brick; it is thought that these walls constitute the oldest structure on the site, dating back to
the sixth century.
To the right of the temple is a Lao Buddha of comparatively modern vintage, and just behind
the temple is a relief carved into a half-buried slab of stone, depicting the Hindu trinity - a
multi-armed, multi-headed Shiva (standing) is flanked by Brahma (left) and Vishnu (right).
