Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Under the French, the town became an administrative outpost with a bustling Vietnamese
community: the colonial administration thought that an influx of Vietnamese workers was
the key to finally turning a profit on their sparsely populated Lao territory. By the 1940s, the
town was 85 percent Vietnamese. After the revolution, large numbers of these Vietnamese
families fled across the Mekong to Nakhon Phanom on the opposite bank, with the result that
until recently, Thakhek remained a sleepy backwater.
The old centre
There are a few nice colonial-era buildings around Thakhek's overgrown town square, and
on ChaoAnouRoad , north of the square, is a fine row of 1920s shop houses featuring inter-
locking swastika designs of moulded stucco (although this Hindu motif appears in Lao weav-
ing, it is rare in Lao architecture). Between Chao Anou and Setthathilat is a large temple, Wat
Nabo.
Wat Pha That Sikhotabong
6km south of Thakhek ∙ Daily sunrise-sunset ∙ 5000K ∙ Easily reached by bike or motorbike. Expect to pay a
tuk-tuk driver 50,000K, including an hour's wait.
Thakhek's main attraction is WatPhaThatSikhotabong , known locally as Muang Kao, and
one of the country's holiest pilgrimage sites. It's a great scenic spot, especially just before
dusk, when the sun slinks behind riverside buildings on the Thai side of the Mekong. The
third lunar month, which usually falls in July, is the best time to visit, when the temple celeb-
rates its annual bun and a carnival-like atmosphere prevails.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: THAKHEK
By bus Bus passengers disembark either at the Kilometre 2 Market (2km east of the riverb-
ank), at the junction of Route 12 and 13 (4km east of the riverbank), or at the inter-provincial
bus station, around 4.5km northeast of town on Route 13. Buses for the destinations below
depart from the inter-provincial bus station, and some may also stop at Thakhek's other two
bus stops.
Destinations Attapeu (2 daily; 10hr); Dong Hoi (4 weekly; 7hr); Hanoi (1 weekly; 24hr);
Mahaxai (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Paksan (6 daily; 4hr); Pakse (4 daily; 9hr); Salavan (2 daily;
5hr); Savannakhet (3 daily; 4hr); Vientiane (7 daily; 8hr); Xekong (2 daily; 7hr).
By tuk-tuk There are plenty of tuk-tuks on hand - useful, as the town is sprawling. Rogue
drivers have been known to agree one price for the journey, only to pull over after a kilometre
or so, demanding more cash. Hold firm, keep calm and you should get there for the price you
agreed. A journey from the riverbank to the bus station should cost no more than 30,000K.
To Thailand The third Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, around 14km north of town, links
Thakhek with Nakhon Phanom on the western side of the Mekong. The cross-river ferry,
which leaves Thakhek from the ramp near the Immigration Office, is reserved for locals only,
so do not attempt to leave Laos here. To cross the bridge, take one of the regular buses from
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