The far north - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 302

a str ong community ethos - including a clinic offering free healthcare for locals. Half-board.
$125
Sarika At the top of the speedboat landing 081 212306. In a plum position very close to
the landings, this is one of the best options. Whitewashed rooms are smallish but well main-
tained an d feature nice wood trims. No balconies but some have views down to the Mekong.
100,000K
Vassana 300m east of the boat landings 081 212302. Despite its unpromising exterior, this
is actually one of the smarter guesthouses along the main strip. For once, some thought has
gone into the colour scheme, and rooms have big, comfy beds, sparkling bathroo ms and (very
Lao this) reclining chairs ripped straight out of vans. No views, though. 80,000K
EATING AND DRINKING
A lot of the guesthouses have restaurants, serving a fairly predictable mix of Western and
Lao/Thai dishes, mitigated to some extent by fine river views; competition for custom along
the main strip is fierce. An hour or so before the slow boats arrive, and again the next morn-
ing, a few stalls up from the landing put steaks, sausages and chicken on to grill - a tastier
sandwich option for the onward boat journey than the baguettes sold by the numerous guest-
house bakeries.
Khopchaideu 100m west of the landings, opposite Mekong Riverside Lodge 020 5171
7068. Away from the main drag, this Bangladeshi-run place is the better of town's two curry
houses, and focuses on heavy north Indian non-veg cuisine. Dishes are slightly one-size-fits-
all, but pretty tasty; chicken tikka masala (27,000K).
MonsavanBakery 100m east of the landings 020 577 1935. Festooned with Beerlao flags,
this cool and breezy restaurant-bakery opposite the (slightly overpriced) Monsavan Guest-
house is a good place for a breakfast bagel (with cream cheese 25,000K) or bowl of muesli
(25,000K). Daily 6am-10.30pm.
Sunset Bar Pakbeng Lodge, 500m west of the landings 081 212304, pakbeng-
lodge.com . The lantern-lit upper terrace bar at Pakbeng Lodge is hands down the nicest place
within walking distance of town to soak up the views over a sunset cocktail (from 50,000K).
Dinner, served here or in the inviting main restaurant, is a set Thai-Lao menu ($12; best to
reserve). Daily till 10pm.
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