Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DOWN THE MEKONG
Although it's now a well-worn tourist route, many travellers agree that the two-day journey
by
slowboat
(
heua sa
) along the Mekong from Houayxai to the old royal capital of Luang
Prabang, stopping overnight at the village of Pakbeng, is one of those definitive South-
east Asian experiences. Originally, these antiquated diesel-powered boats were primarily
for cargo and the occasional Lao passengers who relied on them for trade and transport. Al-
though the boats can be very full, these days it's a fairly comfortable journey, with seating
generally on cushioned wooden benches or reclining “airline” seating, and enough space
to wander around, play cards, read Kindles and so on. Drinks and a few snacks are on sale
on board - though you'd do better to bring your own provisions - and there are Western
loos. Big bags are normally stored down in the hold at the back. It can be chilly on board,
at least in winter, so bring warm clothing.
Whether you consider taking one of the
speedboats
(
heua wai
) between Houayxai and
Luang Prabang, which stop in Pakbeng for lunch, depends on how risk averse you are.
Skimming across the water at speeds of up to 60kph, or even faster, these cramped eight-
seater crafts cut hours off journey times, but there's no doubt that the exhilarating ride is
a great deal less comfortable and more dangerous - deaths have been reported, though the
vast majority of journeys pass off incident-free. Life vests and crash helmets are provided
- the latter most useful as protection against the wind and engine noise.
A couple of
luxury boats
also make the journey down the Mekong, the pick of which
is
Luang Say
(Luang Prabang 071 252553, Houayxai 084 212092;
luangsay.com
)
.
The price ($506/person in high season) includes overnight accommodation at the
Luang
Say Lodge
in Pakbeng, meals and drinks, plus stops at
Pak Ou Buddha Caves
and minority
villages along the way. It's well worth enquiring about last-minute deals (which, if avail-
able, begin a week before the boat leaves), particularly in low season, which can drop as
low as $216 heading upriver from Luang Prabang.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: HOUAYXAI
BY PLANE
Houayxai's airport
is 6km south of the centre. Flights to Vientiane (55min) are operated
daily by Lao Airlines and twice weekly with Lao Skyway. Chances are you'll need to charter
a sawngthaew to town (50,000K). Lao Airlines has an office next to
Khaupjai
guesthouse,
just south of the old ferry landing ( 084 211026).
BY BUS
Houayxai has two bus stations, around 1km apart. Domestic VIP and international buses, in-
cluding services from Chiang Rai, arrive at the swish new private bus (Phetarloun) station,
7km south of the centre. Normal buses arrive at the old (Keo Champa) bus station, 6km south
