The far north - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 293

THE GIBBON EXPERIENCE
One of the country's pioneering eco-tourism projects has been set up around 80km out of
Houayxai along Route 3 in Bokeo Nature Reserve, a pristine area of jungle that had previ-
ously been inaccessible to tourists. The excellent Gibbon Experience ( 084 212021,
gibbonexperience.org ) offers a uniquely exhilarating way of exploring the reserve, com-
bining trekking (with guides) with zip-lining long stretches across the forest canopy; some
wires are in excess of 500m in length. It's unlike anything else on offer in Laos, and has
quickly become a must-do among backpackers (and others), despite its high price tag.
Groups of no more than eight spend either one or two nights in the reserve, on one of three
trips. There are two three-day options, running on alternate days: the more adventurous
“ Waterfall ”, which involves two to three hours of trekking a day and thus gets you further
into the reserve; and the “ Classic ”, which despite being a little more relaxed (with only an
hour and a half of walking), offers the greater chance of seeing wildlife - don't expect to
see the eponymous, critically endangered black crested gibbon, though you may hear them
calling in the early morning. For those short on time, a third alternative, the recently added
“ Express ” runs every day, and in order to condense the whole experience into two days,
involves the most zip-lining of any of the trips. Nights are spent in the specially crafted
tree houses , high up off the forest floor.
At $310 for three nights and $190 for two, the Gibbon Experience is expensive, but worth
the splurge. Costs include all meals, accommodation, local guides and transport out to and
back from Houayxai. Guides can be hit and miss - complaints about indifference and lack
of English are common - but most people say that the overall experience makes up for
this. It's hugely popular and bookings should be made well in advance via the website,
though in low season it's sometimes possible to walk into the Houayxai office (on the main
street, just north of the old ferry landing; daily 8am-7pm) and join up for the next morn-
ing. You're advised to bring a torch, good trekking boots, loo roll, a fully charged camera
battery (there's no electricity) and plenty of mosquito repellent.
Wat Chom Khao Manilat
Off the main street, reached by stairs immediately opposite the old ferry landing
Houayxai's main sight is the hilltop Wat Chom Khao Manilat , with a tall, Shan-style drum
tower and, to the left of the gaudy, modern sim , a picturesquely weathered teakwood building
now used as a classroom for novice monks. Behind the sim is a collection of heuan pha , lit-
erally “cloth houses”, originally built to store belongings of the dead. The top of the stairway
leading up to the monastery from the main road is a good place to watch the sun set.
Fort Carnot
1km southeast of Wat Chom Khao Manilat (signposted)