Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
least because few tourists make the trip this far. The Upper Mekong scenery here is fantast-
ic, the narrowing river fast-flowing and studded with islets of craggy stone, and the region's
remoteness gives it a real wilderness feel. Xieng Kok is right on the border with Myanmar
(Burma), and though the crossing isn't open to foreigners, around 15km upstream from the
village the first
Lao-Myanmar Friendship Bridge
is due to be completed in 2015, which
should in time see an improvement in the roads - and ultimately, perhaps, one day the invit-
ing prospect of travel between the two countries.
Two kilometres back along the main road towards Muang Long, the old town -
Ban Xien-
gkok Keo
- is an attractive Tai Leu settlement of two-storey wooden houses. In the centre
of the village, one belongs to master craftsman Mr Ou, an elderly gent who makes beautiful
swords used in shamanic ceremonies, which he is happy to show visitors.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: XIENG KOK
Bybus
Minibuses from Muang Long (daily; 50min) do a loop of the town and will drop you
off at the boat landing. The minibus back leaves when full - sometime after 2pm.
By boat
From Xieng Kok it is possible to travel downriver along the Mekong towards
Houayxai. Speedboats no longer run since a spate of attacks by armed gangs from the
Burmese side of the river in 2012, but some 20-30 cargo boats normally pass through each
day. Speak to one of the boat owners getting their papers stamped at the immigration office
above the boat landing (just below
Xieng Kok Resort
) to arrange a ride. Ban Mom is the only
Lao village between Xieng Kok and Houayxai with tourist accommodation, from which it's
a 2hr journey by sawngthaew to Houayxai, though it may be worth continuing to Tonpheung,
from which sawngthaews run more frequently. Occasionally, early morning passenger boats
run to Ban Mom (250,000K; 5hr) and Tonpheung (300,000K; 6-7hr); speak to the tourist of-
fice in Muang Long to find out the latest situation.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Daosavanh
20m to the right from the boat landing 020 239 5443.
In case
Xieng Kok Resort
has been block-booked by Chinese traders, the town's other guesthouse is okay for a night.
The dar
k, windowless rooms have squat loos and cold showers, but the welcome is friendly.
50,000K
Xieng Kok Resort
Above the boat landing 030 920 0356.
On the embankment overlook-
ing the river and landing, the worn but charming
Xieng Kok Resort
is the main place to stay.
The self-contained wooden bungalows, with low beds, nets and TVs, all have en-suite bath-
rooms (with Western loos and solar-powered showers) and sit-outs overlooking the Mekong.
In the restaurant, the English-language menu, so old and crumpled it appears to be written
on parchmen
t, will l
eave you scratching your head at dishes like “convenient” and “fry the
potato silk”.
50,000K
