The far north - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 271

a hub, with Phongsali's airport and links to China north via Ou Tai and southwest via Ban
Yo and Pakha, though the latter crossing is not open to foreigners. It's principally of interest,
however, for its trekking possibilities, visiting Akha and Phu Noi villages, which can be or-
ganized with the local tourist office.
Boun Tai
Around 90km south of Phongsali, midway towards Oudomxai, the large, spread-out village
of Boun Tai is populated by lowland Lao and often frequented by the inhabitants of nearby
Akha villages. Treks can be organized here visiting a remarkable array of remote Akha
groups, including Eupa and Mouchi. Buses stop on the site of a ruined French fortress , a
short walk north of the village market , best known for its finely attired Tai Dam ladies (who
prefer not to be photographed).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: PHONGSALI TO OUDOMXAI
By bus The daily (8am) Phongsali-Oudomxai bus passes through Boun Neua (1hr 30min),
Boun Tai (3hr 30min) and Pak Nam Noi (5hr 30min); Phongsali-Boun Neua services are
more frequent. There are two early morning services from Boun Neua to Ou Tai. At Pak Nam
Noi, you can pick up buses originating in Oudomxai bound for Muang Khoua (3 daily; 1hr)
and Vietnam (daily; 5hr).
Tourist offices There are helpful tourist offices at Boun Neua ( 020 5670 0526) and
Boun Tai ( 020 5592 4442, bountaitrekking.com ) , each located at the town's bus station,
though they're not always staffed when they should be (Mon-Fri 8-11.30am &
1.30-4.30pm). It's well worth ringing in advance (these mobile numbers can be called out of
hours) for advice on trekking and exploring local villages.
ACCOMMODATION
BOUN NEUA
Hao Xayalath 1km north along the Ou Tai road from the bus station 020 5519 4166.
Though there's a basic guesthouse in the bus station compound, this new villa on the edge of
town is the nicest place to stay, with broad staircases and airy corridors. The cheaper rooms
upstairs are the best deal, though all are clean and en-suite, with hot showers. 60,000K
BOUN TAI
Hongthong Hotel 700m along the track opposite the bus station 020 2239 8753. Rather
grand, attractive pink hotel on the edge of the village. All the rooms have high ceilings
and hot showers; VIP rooms are the most salubri ous, big and carpeted, if slightly musty
(120,000K). The restaurant serves decent Lao food. 60,000K