Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
these tribal peoples. Likewise, the indiscriminate handing out of medicine , partic-
ularly antibiotics, does more harm than good. Unless you are a trained doctor, you
should never attempt to administer medical care to hill people.
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in Phongsali caters mostly to Chinese workers; standards of upkeep are low
and prices high for what you get. Be warned that you're likely to be woken up by the govern-
ment announcements broadcast on loudspeakers around town first thing. All the hotels and
guesthouses have free wi-fi.
Phongsaly Hotel In the centre of town 088 210042. A rather soulless Chinese hotel, but
well sit uated in the centre of town, with large rooms with flatscreen TVs and decent bath-
rooms. 100,000K
PhouFaHotel A 5min walk (signposted) from the main roundabout on the way into town
088 210031, phoufahotel@gmail.com . Situated on a hill with great views over the town,
this is regarded as Phongsali's most upmarket place to stay - not that there's much compet-
ition. The initial impression of its institutional exterior isn't great (it's been compared to an
abandoned gulag), but the rooms at the far end of the complex, which are set around a sweet
garden, are nice enough, with gold bedspreads, decorated headboar ds, TV and hot showers;
some bathrooms are let down by poor plumbing, however. 200,000K
Pinekham Douangnal Just along the lane from the tourist office 020 299 9924. Phong-
sali's newest guesthouse, occupying a fetching mauve-coloured building , is one of the best
options. Pleasant tile-floored rooms have big beds and decent bathrooms. 80,000K
Viphaphone In the centre of town 088 210999. New flooring has brightened up the largish
rooms at this rather characterless three-storey hotel, and the mattresses are better th an some
in town. The best rooms are those at the back, with views of the mountains. 80,000K
EATING
Most of the restaurants in Phongsali are Chinese, where dishes are served in large portions
intended for sharing - eat out in a group if you can. As usual, you can get bowls of fõe in the
market, tucked away off the main street.
Laoper Just north of the central tuk-tuk stand 020 5548 1444. Without doubt this
simple family-run restaurant offers the best cooking in Phongsali. There's no menu - just
point at whatever ingredients in the kitchen take your fancy (or make the appropriate animal
noises), and trust them to cook up a Yunnan-style feast. Mains 30,000-35,000K. Daily
5-9.30pm.
Nangsone Just east of Phongsaly Hotel. With its gingham tablecloths and pot plants, this cute
little café is the only place geared towards Western tourists, and the best option for a sit-down
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