The far north - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 265

TREKKING AND TRIPS FROM PHONGSALI
The main attraction of a visit to Phongsali is the opportunity to trek in this beautiful region,
home to 28 different ethnic groups. One of the advantages of making it this far is that, on
longer treks at least, there's a good chance that some of the tribes you'll encounter will
have had little contact with foreigners before. Many of the treks around Phongsali start in
or near Boun Neua or Boun Tai , which can be used as alternative bases. Depending on the
trek, you may witness a basi ceremony, go swimming in local creeks - and will almost cer-
tainly consume a lot of lào-láo . Prices vary according to the size of the group, and will in-
clude food, accommodation, (almost always) guide fees, though not always transport. Note
that “walk-in” rates are usually cheaper than prices quoted online - though of course if you
book at the last minute you run the risk of having to hang around for a day or two for others
to join the tour. Both of the main operators in town are strong on responsibletourism , and
are happy to demonstrate where your trekking fees go.
If you don't fancy an organized trek, renting a motorbike is a great way to see the local
countryside. Vehicles can be rented from Amazing Lao Travel and Yeehua guesthouse. The
tourist office has a couple of mountain bikes for rent (50,000K/day).
TOUR OPERATORS
AmazingLaoTravel 088 210594, explorephongsalylaos.com . The main private tour
operator in town runs a wide range of treks, of one to five days' duration. One-day trips
start at 250,000K per person, though more rewarding are two- and three-day overnight
treks (from 600,000K/880,000K/person), visiting more isolated tribes. Treks range as far
as Ou Tai and Ou Neua, in Laos's very northern corner, and boat trips up the Nam Ou in-
clude one to Dam 6, with an opportunity to meet displaced villagers.
Touristoffice Popular treks organized by the tourist office include the two-day Jungle Trek
from Boun Neua through pristine forest, staying overnight with high-dwelling Akha Pixo
tribespeople (from 400,000K), and the challenging three-day Multiethnic trek from Boun
Tai, where you'll receive a massage at an Akha Eupa village (from 618,000K). Chief tour-
ism officer, Mr Khamphanh ( 020 2844 9939), can be contacted out of hours.
The old quarter
On a slope directly behind the Phongsaly Hotel - regarded as the dead centre of town - is
Phongsali's oldquarter . A wander through these friendly but medieval-looking lanes is like
stepping back in time. Interspersed among the squat houses, some still of mud bricks and
rough-hewn planks, are a few architectural standouts, including one distinctly Chinese build-
ing with a beautifully carved wooden facade that looks like it belongs on the backstreets of
old Kunming. The quarter's three main streets run parallel for a stretch and then converge
at a large basketball court, from which leads Phongsali's main commercial thoroughfare, a