Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist office Muang Khoua's tourist office (Mon-Fri 8-11.30am & 1.30-4pm; 088
210098, phongsaly.net ) is situated on the main road, a 5min walk up from the boat landing,
and has a useful hand-drawn map of the town on the wall. The very helpful local tourism of-
ficer, Mr Bounma, can organize treks to visit Akha Pouli and Khmu villages (800,000K for
two people, including homestay), and can be contacted out of hours ( 020 5802 1794).
Internet Internet access is available at Chaleunsouk guesthouse (10,000K/hr).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Muang Khoua has a number of guesthouses ; unless you're heading straight for the Nam Ou ,
your best option on arrival is to follow the road uphill from the boat landing. There are no
great culinary treats in Muang Khoua - the market is the best choice for a decent fõe or
takeaway lunch. The trio of restaurants on the way up from the boat landing have great
views of the river and are good for a Beerlao, though the food is pretty grotty; Saifon is prob-
ably the best of them.
Chaleunsouk 5min walk up from the boat landing 030 932088. One of the nicest choices
in town, with clean, cool rooms featuring oversized beds with decorated headboards; ask to
see a few rooms, as they vary in size. The reception area also sells handicrafts, and there's a
nice communal veranda. 60,000K
Manhchai Next to the tourist office 020 2201 6810. Right opposite the overpriced Sern-
naly Hotel , this vision in pink is one of the smartest options. The sizeable rooms have
flatscreen TVs, though the mattresses are rather hard. They claim to have free wi-fi (currently
unique for Mu ang Khou a), though the owner is reluctant to part with the password unless
you're staying. 100,000K
Manotham Ban Natoun, across the suspension bridge 020 5588 0058. Muang Khoua's
most atmospheric place to stay, above the Nam Phak, with terrific views over town and across
to the wooden bridge from the communal terrace - though rooms are basic and dark, with
saggy beds. The guesthouse is easy to miss - turn left after the suspension b ridge an d follow
the road for 100m, past the yellow house on the right; look for the tiny sign. 50,000K
Nam Ou Above the boat landing - look for steps to the left leading up to it 088 210844.
Muang Khoua's most popular backpacker choice, with rather cell-like rooms that feel a little
flimsy. The shared bathrooms are pretty dingy, but those with private bath (50,000K) are a
bit better. The sociable terrace restaurant, overlooking the river, is the travellers' favo urite for
dinner, with Vietnamese noodles (18,000K) and an insanely garlicky larp (30,000K). 40,000K
Nang Mien Next to Chaleunsouk Guesthouse 020 2284 5474. This small, bare-bones res-
taurant has a great local feel, and serves up a well-spiced fried rice (15,000K) and a gorgeous
Lao-style yellow curry (25,000K). Daily 7am-9pm.
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