Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
side where the Nam Phak river enters the Nam Ou, and is famous for its precarious-looking
wooden suspension bridge, which connects Muang Khoua with the village of Natoun. If you
follow the road uphill from the boat landing, it leads to the main road - both are crammed
with old shop houses, though many have been replaced with modern constructions. A left
turn off the main road will take you to the small daily market.
Though there's not a great deal to see in Muang Khoua, it does have a certain charm, and
some travellers end up staying for a couple of days to explore the rugged and hilly surround-
ing countryside further. For most visitors, however, it's just a stopover en route to Hat Sa (for
Phongsali) on the river, or to or from Vietnam via the border crossing at Dien Bien Phu.
The suspension bridge
The bridge is surprisingly hard to find: at the top of the boat landing road, turn left down the main street (past
the tourist office) to the T-junction where it meets the main highway; cross the road and head straight on down
a track, signposted B. Salongxay
A stroll out across the high, swaying
suspension bridge
- shared with speeding motorbikes
- is worth it for the view, but is a stomach-fluttering experience and not for the vertigo-prone.
Wandering around the dusty, ramshackle hamlet of Ban Natoun across the bridge you'll feel
like you've dropped back half a century or so.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MUANG KHOUA
By boat
Boats leave from the boat landing at around 9am most days for Muang Ngoi
(100,000K; 4-5hr) and Nong Khiaw (120,000K; 6hr), and at around 10am heading north to
the Nam Ou Dam 5 works at Muang Samphan (3-4hr), the first leg of the journey up to Hat
Sa, for Phongsali (8-9hr; 130,000K to Hat Sa). You'll have to pay more if there's not a full
complement of passengers. At Muang Samphan, you're bundled into the back of a pick-up
truck (15min; 10,000K) for the transfer to the boat for Hat Sa (3hr) on the other side of the
dam. Note that there's nowhere to buy food until Hat Sa, so bring supplies. It's possible to
charter a boat either up- or downriver for upwards of one million kip.
By bus
The bus station is 3km west of the centre of town (5000K in a shared sawngthaew).
Buses run to Oudomxai from the bus station three times daily (8am, noon & 3pm; 3hr). To
reach Phongsali by road you'll need to first take the 8am bus to
Pak Nam Noi
(1hr), where a
Phongsali-bound service from Oudomxai passes through at around 9.30am (7hr).
ToVietnam
The road to Dien Bien Phu in Vietnam via the border crossing at Sop Houn/Tay
Trang was relaid in 2012, and the journey is now possible in as little as 4hr. There is a 6am
bus, but the most convenient service currently leaves at around 10.30am from outside Muang
Khoua's tourist office, arriving in Dien Bien Phu around 3pm, though it's best to check times
with the tourist office the day before. Note that you will need to already have your Viet-
namese visa to make this crossing.
