Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
mocks per balcony and the best mattresses in town. The Lao-Swedish ow ners so metimes
have “beach” barbecues up at the Riverbeach Bar , north of the boat landing. 80,000K
Suan Phao Bungalows 400m south of the boat landing 020 2266 9940. Though not the
sturdiest of bungalows, these are light and very well maintain ed, with hammock-slung ter-
races. Ask to see a few, however, as some can be a little damp. 50,000K
EATING AND DRINKING
Virtually all of the town's bungalow operations serve food , with Ning Ning , Alounemai and
Riverbeach all providing particularly atmospheric surroundings. Some of the restaurants have
coordinated their happy-hour periods to span much of the day - if you were so inclined you
could merrily spend an increasingly foggy-minded afternoon hopping from place to place.
Sleepy by day, Muang Ngoi is positively supine by nightfall, and you can take most of the
quoted opening hours listed here with a pinch of salt: on a quiet night many places will have
packed up for bed by 8.30pm.
Bee Tree 450m south from the boat landing 030 208 4877. Right at the bottom end of the
village, this attractive, lantern-lit restaurant, with seating on bamboo sofas and jazzy sounds,
offers the village's best Lao food. It's pricier than elsewhere in town, with mains around
35,000K, but the spicing is good and ingredients fresh. Also has cocktails from 30,000K.
Daily 11.30am-11.30pm.
Lattanavongsa Just up from the boat landing, on the left 020 2236 2444. The restaurant
attached to this guesthouse is one of the nicest in town, with a breezy balcony overlooking
the boat landing; pancakes and sandwiches cost around 15,000K, and Lao curries
20,000-25,000K. A good place to spend the evening over a cold Beerlao. Daily
7am-10.30pm.
Saibadee Café At the top of the path up from the boat landing. This cute corner café
overlooking the street is one of several offering popular all-you-can-eat breakfast buffets
(25,000K), though for fresher food pick something off the menu (hot baguettes 15,000K).
Daily 6.30am-10pm.
SHOPPING
Pak Phou Sabai 250m south from the boat landing 020 9993 8527. This chilled-out but
well-organized new book exchange-café-shop sells a fascinating range of local products,
from Muang Ngoi rice, Mekong river weed and Lao coffee to stencilled artwork and hand-
made scarves. Also organizes cookery classes with local women. Daily 8am-9pm.
Muang Khoua
Located on the left bank of the Nam Ou where the highway from Oudomxai crosses the river
via a new concrete bridge on its way to Vietnam, MUANG KHOUA is an important cross-
roads and outpost in southern Phongsali province. The town itself is built on a steep hill-
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