Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
While history has seen the rise and fall of a Lao dynasty enthroned at Luang Prabang,
the elevated northern fringes of the former kingdom have remained relatively isolated
untilrecenttimes.Decadesofwarandneglecthavedonetheirparttokeepthisstunning
area of Southeast Asia from developing, and although inward investment from neigh-
bouring China is beginning to transform the landscape in places, the north still retains
waysoflifethathavevirtuallyvanishedinneighbouringcountries.Whilethefertileval-
leys of the Upper Mekong and its tributaries have for centuries been the domain of the
BuddhistlowlandLao,thehillsandmountainstothenorthhavebeenthepreserveofa
scattering of animist tribal peoples, including the Hmong, Mien, Khmu and Akha. It is
largelythechancetoexperiencefirst-handthesenear-pristineculturesthatdrawsvisit-
ors to the region today.
Many people come this far north in order to take the amazing boat trip along the
Nam Ou
river
. In recent years, boat traffic has dwindled, owing not just to improved roads but also
to Chinese dam construction, but whether reached by road or river, the town of
Nong Khi-
aw
makes a spectacular introduction to the far north, nestling among some of the region's
most dramatic scenery, with limestone mountains all around and excellent opportunities for
exploration. It's also the sole gateway to tiny
MuangNgoi
, an hour north by river and long a
favourite with visitors to the region wanting to kick back for a few days. From Nong Khiaw
or Muang Ngoi it's a stunning two-day journey by boat, overnighting at the rough-and-ready
river port of
Muang Khoua
- a key waypoint for travellers bound for Vietnam - to
Phong-
sali
, the principal (and eponymously named) town of a mountainous province that's every bit
as untamed as you might imagine of somewhere so remote. With an old town that feels as
though it hasn't changed for decades and a relatively new trekking scene, Phongsali makes
an appealing base from which to visit hill tribes that retain a very traditional way of life. Im-
proved transport means that it's now easier to explore the region than ever before, though you
can still expect long journeys on endlessly windy roads.
A long day's drive south of Phongsali - but a relatively straightforward hop from Nong Khi-
aw - is
Oudomxai
, a fast-developing provincial capital and important transport hub; from
here it's possible to connect to most other places in northern Laos, as well as Vientiane.
Though Oudomxai itself has little to detain visitors for long, it's just an hour's drive from
the enchanting village of
Muang La
, home to one of the region's most magical places to
stay. The most popular northern town is undoubtedly the tourist centre of
Luang Namtha
, a
good place to relax for a few days if you're after some home comforts, and a popular base
for trekking, owing to its comfortable and excellent-value accommodation and easy access
to nearby tribal villages. More laidback is the low-key centre of
Muang Sing
, reached by a
stunning road journey northwest through
Nam Ha NBCA
, a pristine and beautiful protected
area of the country. Both Muang Sing and
Muang Long
, a small but bustling centre still al-
