The northeast - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 233

SAM NEUA TEXTILES
Experts on Lao textiles all seem to agree that the most sophisticated pieces, in terms of
both design and colour scheme, are produced in the region around Sam Neua . A fashion
revolution followed the political revolution in 1975, when the victorious communists aban-
doned their headquarters near Sam Neua and moved into Vientiane. The wives of the new
leaders enthusiastically sported the Tai Daeng styles of Sam Neua, and it wasn't long be-
fore the look caught on. Today the bold, spidery patterns of Sam Neua textiles are a favour-
ite all over Laos.
Among Lao textiles, the work of the Tai Daeng and Tai Nua stand out. Classified by eth-
nologists as “tribal Tai”, these ethnic groups are related culturally and linguistically to the
lowland Lao. However, unlike the lowland Lao, they are animists for the most part, though
Mahayana Buddhist influence can be seen in their textile motifs. These groups believe that
death is the most important rite of passage in a person's life, and the funeral ceremony is
correspondingly elaborate. To prepare for it, a woman will weave a special skirt to wear
to the grave. A geometric design woven into the waistband of the skirt will serve to ward
off spirits that might attempt to block her passage into the “Garden of Golden Mangoes”.
Another significant textile used by the Sam Neua cultures is a “shaman's shawl”, worn
by spirit mediums while performing healing ceremonies. Symbols on these shawls are re-
markably similar to those found on bronze frog-drums of the sixth-century BC Dong-son
culture which was centred in northern Vietnam. Other motifs found on Sam Neua textiles
include the swastika, a Hindu symbol that was adopted by Mahayana Buddhism, and the
stylized “third eye”. Perhaps the most striking and the most “Lao” of the Sam Neua motifs
are realistic naga imprinted in the textiles by tie-dyeing.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SAM NEUA
By bus There are two bus stations in Sam Neua; a tuk-tuk from either into the centre should
cost 20,000K.
Main bus station Long-distance buses arrive at/depart from the main bus station, around
1km south of town just off Route 6. Buses for Vietnam also depart from here daily at 8am,
stopping at Thanh Hoa (180,000K) and continuing on to Hanoi (300,000K). Arrive at the bus
station by 7am to ensure you get a ticket and remember that you'll need a pre-arranged visa
to enter Vietnam.
Destinations Luang Prabang (2 daily; 13-14hr); Nong Khiaw (2 daily; 12hr); Phonsavan (3
daily; 8hr); Thanh Hoa, Vietnam (1 daily; 9hr); Vieng Thong (1 daily; 5hr); Vientiane, via
Phonsavan (3 daily, 18-20hr); Vientiane, via Luang Prabang (1 daily; 25hr).
Nathongbusstation Buses serving destinations within the province use Nathong bus station,
to the east of town. Each morning from Tuesday to Sunday, buses run from here to Thanh Hoa