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the trade -offs are thin walls and periodic lapses in cleanliness. Very handy for breakfast at
Saffron . 140,000K
Sopha House Soukkaseum Rd 071 253058, sopha-house@gmail.com ; map . The huge
thatch-walled rooms on the all-wood first floor of this gorgeous old building opposite the
Nam Khan ($35) share a delightful balcony overlooking the river, but suffer f rom poo r
plumbing; the smaller, more basic rooms downstairs arguably provide better value. 160,000K
Thaheuame Souliyavongsa Rd 020 5508 0903, thaeaume@gmail.com ; map . An attract-
ive Mekong-side guesthouse close to the morning market. The larger upstairs rooms ($35)
are best, being light and airy with big windows overlooking the rive r, though it's quieter at
the back; all display a touch of style and the welcome is friendly. $25
Thanaboun Sisavangvong Rd 071 260606, thanaboun.gh@gmail.com ; map . Rooms
here are set back from the main drag and are plain, but attractive. The most atmosph eric, yet
also the smallest and cheapest, are those off the small courtyard at the back. 150,000K
ThatsaphoneVilla Off Sisavangvong Rd 020 5567 1888; map . On a little side street close
to Wat Xiengmouane, this lovely guesthouse, set among palm trees, is a great deal for this
part of town. Renovated in 201 4, th e simple rooms are slightly on the small side, but nicely
furnished, with flat-screen TVs. $25
Victoria Xiengthong Palace Kounxoa Rd 071 213200, victoriahotels.asia ; map . Set
in a frangipani-studded compound next to Wat Xieng Thong, the last residence of King
Sisavang Vatthana was sumptuously renovated in 2011. On our visit, room decor was un-
derstated to the point of slight anonymity, but following a change of ownership, manager
Guillermo was working hard to alter that; currently the two -stor ey suites ($350), with huge
jacuzzi baths, offer the best value. Big discounts off-season. $290
View Khem Khong Souliyavongsa Rd 071 213032, ericsensaoui@msn.com ; map . The
cheapest rooms here may be rather cramped and without a view, but you won't find many
better priced on the Mekong road. There's just one with a rive r view, th ough it's considerably
more expensive (350,000K). The attached restaurant is good. 140,000K
Villa Nagara Soukkaseum Rd 071 213120, villanagara.com ; map . A classy new
seven-room place in a delightful wooden house right above the (dry-season only) Nam Khan
bamboo bridge. Though the rooms aren't large, each is individually and stylishly decorated
to its own colour pal ette and features lovely Lao fabrics. Breakfast (included) is served on
the riverside terrace. $75
Villa Senesouk Sakkaline Rd 071 212074, luangphabang.com/senesouk ; map . Sweet,
immaculately kept rooms decorated with Lao masks and figurines in a large house opposite
Wat Sene. For an extra $10 you can procure a balcony overlooking the temple, but best are
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