Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Across the Mekong: Xieng Men and Chomphet district
Surprisingly few tourists bother to cross the Mekong and explore the sleepy village of
XIENGMEN , but it's a real delight to escape the crowds and experience village life so close
to the city. Although exploring the riverside monasteries here will only take a couple of hours,
there's much else to do in largely wooded Chomphetdistrict , of which Xieng Men is merely
the first village. Ask at the Chomphet tourist office about mountain biking tours to thirty-
metre Hoykhua waterfall (safe for swimming), visits to seldom-visited caves and a two-day
trek staying at a local Hmong village.
Wat Xiengmene
Just up from the boat landing, follow the narrow lane to the right for 500m through the village ∙ 10,000K
Wat Xiengmene was built in 1592 and extensively rebuilt in modern times, though the sim
still retains its beautifully carved doors. Inside the sim , restored with US money, the most
striking feature is a fine naga serpent, glittering with multi-coloured mosaic pieces. The bam-
boo forest behind the wat conceals a royal cemetery for those members of royalty who, for
religious reasons, could not be cremated.
Wat Chom Phet
500m further east along the lane, which becomes a path after 300m ∙ 10,000K
A steep short climb up steps brings you to the timeworn sim and stupas of Wat Chom Phet .
Now fallen into disuse, the whitewashed sim 's interior is entirely barren, bar an elaborately
carved - if worn - stone altar. At dusk the views of the sunset from here are spectacular, fur-
ther enhanced by the sounds of the city carrying across the water.
Wat Long Khoun and Wat Tham Sackkalin
300m east beyond Wat Chom Phet along the path ∙ 10,000K, includes guided visit to Wat Tham Sackkalin, for
which a tip of around 5000K is expected
Wat Long Khoun is set in peaceful grounds above the river. Very much a working temple,
it was once used by Luang Prabang's kings as a pre-coronation retreat involving ritual baths,
meditation and reflection. Of note are the two Chinese door guardians painted either side of
the main entrance to the sim , and the vibrant, colourful Jataka murals within. In one, a group
of mohican-topped monks swim for their lives to escape a trio of man-eating fish, while on
the back wall, a family of elephants slurps languidly from a waterfall.
Your ticket for Wat Long Khoun includes a guided visit (basically, a kid with a torch)
to nearby Wat Tham Sackkalin , which is actually a cave repository for old and damaged
Buddha images. As with Tham Ting upriver, this remarkably clammy cave is a focus of activ-
ity during Lao New Year, when the residents of Luang Prabang come here to gain merit by
ritually bathing the Buddhas. There's not a great deal to see, but it's rather atmospheric and
quite fun to scramble over rocks in the dark.
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