Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Phousi
(“Sacred Hill”) is the geographical as well as spiritual centre of the city. Believed to
have once harboured a powerful naga who dwelt in its bowels, the hill is also seen as a mini-
ature Mount Meru, the Mount Olympus of Hindu-Buddhist cosmology. Though there is little
to see on the hill itself, save for an ancient-looking
sim
at its foot, Phousi is striking from a
distance. Indeed, the golden spires of
That Chomsi
at its summit are the first glimpse of the
city that many visitors get if they are arriving by plane. Likewise, the peak affords a stunning
panorama of the city it crowns, and the shimmering rivers and jungle-clad mountains beyond
are mesmerizing. Viewing the
setting sun
from the summit of Phousi has become a kind of
tourist ritual, so don't expect to enjoy the moment alone - indeed, early morning is a better
time to come, when the city and the hill are more peaceful. A quieter spot from which to
watch the sunset is
Santi Chedi
on a hill due east of Phousi, which affords a marvellous view
back towards the old city without the crowds.
There are
three approaches
to the summit, meaning you can climb up one route and des-
cend another. The first and most straightforward ascent is via the stairway directly opposite
the main gate of the Royal Palace Museum. The second approach, on the other side of the
hill, is up a zigzag stairway flanked by whitewashed naga, and can be used for descending
to the Nam Khan road. The third and most rambling approach is via
Wat Pha Phoutthabat
,
near Phousi's northern foot, further east along Sisavangvong Road from the Royal Palace.
Most people choose the first ascent, which allows you to first stop at the adjacent
Wat Pa
Houak
; from here it's a steep climb through a tunnel of shady plumeria trees to the peak.
Wat Pa Houak
Accessed from Sisavangvong Rd, opposite the Royal Palace ∙ Free, donation recommended
The fine little
Wat Pa Houak
has a charmingly weathered facade, but is mainly of interest
for its fascinating nineteenth-century
interiormurals
, which appear to depict Luang Prabang
as a celestial city. Besides Lao characters in classical costumes, there are Chinese, Persians
and Europeans in the city, but it is not clear whether they have come as visitors or invaders.
Wat Pha Phoutthabat
Accessed from Sisavangvong Rd, opposite
Sackarinh Guesthouse
Climbing Phousi via
WatPhaPhoutthabat
affords the most atmosphere. There are actually
three monasteries in this compound, one of which is a school for novice monks. The most in-
teresting structure in the compound is the
sim
of
WatPaKhe
, a tall, imposing building with
an unusual inward-leaning facade. Most noteworthy here is a pair of carved shutters on the
window to the left of the main entrance, said to depict seventeenth-century Dutch traders, and
on the right-hand (north-facing) wall a similar, if less well-executed, pair of shutters thought
to depict Venetians. Behind and to the left of Wat Pa Khe's
sim
is a stairway leading to a
shrine housing the “
Buddha's footprint
” after which Wat Pha Phoutthabat was named. The
larger-than-life stylized footprint is complete with the 108 auspicious marks said to be found
