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district, the Stay Korea Guesthouse (566-4 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, tel. 02/336-9026,
www.staykorea.co.kr , doubles from 50,000 won).
Food
You'll never be more than a few feet from something to eat in Seoul; the only challenges
are making a decision and (sometimes) deciphering menus. Samwon Garden (623-5 Sinsa-
dong, Gangnam-gu, tel. 02/548-3030, www.samwongarden.com ) , an upscale Korean res-
taurant in the posh Apgujeong district, offers a good overview of the country's best-loved
dishes. Baru (71 Gyeongji-dong, 5th Fl., Jongno-gu, tel. 02/2031-2081, www.baru.or.kr )
is an atmospheric eatery near Insa-dong that specializes in Buddhist-temple vegetarian
cuisine. For Western comfort food, try Do Ha Gun (109 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, tel. 02/
3210-2100), a lovely French-Italian restaurant in a traditional Korean house in the heart
of historic Seoul, or Vatos Urban Tacos in Itaewon (181-8 Itaewon-dong, 2nd Fl., tel.
02/797-8226, www.vatoskorea.com ) for an imaginative take on Mexican cuisine and killer
cocktails. The Hongdae/Shinchon axis a good place to try out the street snacks, cheap bar-
becue, and pastry shops beloved by budget-conscious students.
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