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ments, but remember not to make any final decisions before you've talked to multiple
agents—quotes sometimes differ from one to the next. If time permits, take a bus or cab up
the hill to the Hyatt Hotel—just outside the hotel is an entrance to Namsan Park, which has
some reasonably unstrenuous walking trails that offer sweeping views of the city. If you'd
prefer a dose of culture, just downhill from the Hyatt is the striking Leeum Samsung Mu-
seum of Art, which houses much of the enviable collection of the Samsung conglomerate's
founding family, as well as rotating exhibitions by contemporary local and international
artists. When evening hits, make your way back down to Itaewon's main drag to sample
some of the area's legendary (and occasionally notorious) nightlife. The district's diverse
range of restaurants, bars, and clubs collectively probably boasts the highest concentration
of expats in the city, and many are welcoming, convivial places for a chat with current Seoul
residents.
Day 3
Get a look at Seoul's more modern face by heading south of the river to the affluent Gang-
nam district. A walk along bustling Tehran-ro, one of corporate Korea's epicenters, is a
good reminder of just how prosperous the country has become, and can be followed by
a visit to the rather incongruously located Bongeunsa Buddhist temple, an island of tran-
quility in an area that is busy even by Seoul standards. Gangnam is an important shopping
destination, and several modern-style malls and megastores are located here, including the
COEX center, E-mart, and further south, Costco. Poke your head into one of these places
for a crash course on the costs of imported food, and if you're considering living in Gang-
nam, visit a few real estate agents. After dark, prepare to splurge a little and visit one of
the trendy restaurants or lounges in Garosu-gil, a nightspot and designer-dotted street in the
Sinsa-dong area, to mingle with some of Seoul's trendsetters.
Day 4
Regardless of whether you've decided you have to live in the city center or are staunchly
determined not to, a trip out to Seoul's suburbs is worth taking, if only to witness how South
Korean cities are developing. Go to the nearest rapid (red) bus stop and take a commuter
bus bound for Ilsan, which should take about 45 minutes to reach from downtown Seoul.
Upon arrival, head for the massive Lake Park near Jeongbalsan, a relatively successful ex-
ample of urban planning that boasts bike paths, jogging tracks, artificial islands, and even
a singing fountain. The park is ringed with plush new apartment complexes that are also
worth a look; property agents in the area will be more than happy to show you around but
may not speak much English. There's no need to head back to Seoul for dinner—the nearby
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