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the areas popular with expatriates—such as Haeundae and Pusan National University—and
perhaps fit in a side trip to Ulsan or the culture-rich city of Gyeongju. It would also be
enough time to make your way around Jeju Island with lengthy pit stops in the main cit-
ies of Jeju and Seogwipo. Or you could pick a region and divide the week among its main
centers, heading south from Seoul to visit Daejeon, Gwangju, and Jeonju to the west, for
example.
Day 1
After a night recovering from what's bound to be an exhausting flight, get up early and
head straight for Gyeongbokgung Palace in the central district of Jongno-gu before the in-
evitable hordes of sightseers arrive. This is primarily a tourist site, to be sure, but also the
heart of old Seoul and one of the best places to begin getting a sense of how the city is
laid out. The palace is surrounded by some of Seoul's most historic and character-crammed
neighborhoods, so take the time to explore them. A short stroll from its eastern walls will
bring you to the charming, Samcheong-dong district, where cafes, galleries, and boutique
shops are housed in a mix of historic and eye-catching contemporary architecture. Follow
the main strip toward the entrance to quiet Samcheong Park and veer right, and you'll soon
be in the heart of Bukchon Hanok Village, one of the few patches of Seoul where hanok,
or traditional Korean homes, still exist in significant numbers. With their snug courtyards
and delicately curved eaves, these properties have attracted more than a few foreign resid-
ents, and you may want to drop in on a neighborhood real estate agent if you feel the lure
of hanok life—but since many of these places are beautifully restored and equipped, bring
an open checkbook. Just south of the village, on the other side of Anguk subway station, is
the Insa-dong area, popular with visitors (and residents) for its craft and souvenir stores as
well as traditional restaurants and tea shops. This is a great part of town for new arrivals to
get acquainted with Korean food, since most restaurants see a fair number of tourists and
go out of their way to cater to non-Korean speakers.
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