Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Like the rest of South Korea, the east enjoys a temperate climate with four distinct seasons,
but there are some regional variations. The southeast of the peninsula, including major
coastal cities like Ulsan and Busan, offers some of the mildest weather in the country next to
Jeju Island. The summer humidity is moderated by sea breezes, and temperatures rarely dip
below freezing in the winter, making snow a very rare sight. Conversely Daegu, which lies
inland in a mountain basin, has some of the hottest summers in the nation as warm sticky air
is trapped there by the surrounding hills. In the winter months, Gangwon Province, partic-
ularly areas at higher elevations or near the Demilitarized Zone, is noticeably colder (typic-
ally 4-5°C) than the southeast and receives more snowfall than anywhere else in the coun-
try.
South Korea's second-largest city, Busan, is a thriving oceanside metropolis of around four
million people that manages to feel like a couple of different places at once. The old down-
town is very much an extension of the harbor, a massive forest of cranes and containers fa-
cing the East Sea that is the biggest in the country and among the five busiest in the world.
But Busan's up-and-coming districts have less to do with the sea trade than culture and leis-
ure, and if we're making port-town comparisons, are more Miami Beach than Marseilles.
The city is dense and sprawling, but its seaside perch and forested hilltops give it a certain
visual flair. It's busy but still manages to maintain a laid-back feel, and thanks to its abund-
ance of seafaring types and international festivals, it is fairly cosmopolitan. Throw in the
beaches, a solid arts scene, and the low cost of living, and it's obvious why Busan is begin-
ning to present some strong competition to Seoul as South Korea's main expat haven.
The central district rising from the port to Yongdu (Dragon's Head) Mountain is
cramped and gritty in places, a tangle of office blocks, shopping arcades, and wet markets
that's an intriguing—if not the most livable—part of town. More expatriates prefer to con-
gregate in Seomyeon to the north, where the intersection of Busan's two subway lines has
created a newer downtown of sorts. This is a heavily built-up buzzing area of neon-lined
streets, shopping complexes, and crammed nightspots, perfect for those who want to be at
the heart of the action. Most of the housing here is in sizable apartment blocks, with semi-
furnished two-bedroom units in newer structures such as the Majestower renting for around
