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from U.S. Army headquarters packed with clothing and souvenir shops, restaurants, and
nightspots. The street once had a decidedly seedy character but has spruced itself up re-
markably and is now better known for continental cuisine and sleek lounges than bad beha-
vior and girly bars. The opening of a subway line for the area in 2001 boosted its conveni-
ence and has drawn more visitors from other parts of the city.
Many foreign nationals choose to live in Yongsan because it is quite simply the only
place they feel at home. More English is spoken here than in other parts of Seoul, businesses
and landlords are more accustomed to non-Koreans' wants and expectations, and most
expat-oriented clubs and activities meet or take place in the area. Grocery stores carry im-
ported delicacies like tortilla chips and pesto, and everything from dim sum to foie gras is
a short walk or cab ride away. It's a fun and colorful part of town, home to a staggering
variety of nationalities and religions that all seem to get along just fine.
Unfortunately, because of the abundance of well-paid expatriates in the area, there's a
lot of upward pressure on rents. Haebangchon, an enclave to the north of Itaewon served
by Noksapyeong subway station, is generally viewed as the cheapest option in the district.
Most of the apartments here are villas, the South Korean term for small four- to five-story
apartment blocks, or former homes divided into apartment units. Diminutive (50-square-
meter) studio or one-bedroom apartments can be had for 300,000 won per month and up,
usually with a deposit of 1-5 million won. Prices rise as apartments approach the main Itae-
won strip.
Just south of Itaewon is the Hannam-dong area, long the domain of ambassadors, U.S.
military officers, and the old Seoul elite. This area is also dominated by villas, although
there are a few larger apartment complexes and stand-alone homes. Rents here start at
around two million won for an 80-square-meter two-bedroom unit.
Selling prices for these villas vary greatly depending on size and the age of the building,
but as it's perceived as a good location, you'd have a hard time finding anything serviceable
under 400 million won.
Hannam-dong runs into Dongbinggo-dong to the west and the UN Village to the east,
two of the only areas in Seoul, along with Seongbuk-dong to the north, where large stand-
alone homes with yards are commonplace. These are generally well-built and spacious
(over 300 square meters) and come with some furniture and standard appliances; however,
rents are nothing short of stratospheric, with little available below five million won per
month. Buying outright would probably set you back one billion won or more.
West of Hannam-dong and closer to the river, Ichon-dong is dominated by freshly built
apartment complexes and is known as Seoul's “Little Tokyo” due to its popularity with
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