Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
And in a metropolis this big, one rarely if ever runs out of new corners to poke around or
things to do. A surprising amount of history—temples, markets, colonial architecture—has
managed not only to survive the capital's tumultuous past but to remain very much alive.
Elaborate ceremonies and lively festivals are a monthly occurrence, celebrating Korea's
Confucian heritage, the passage of the seasons, and even contemporary dance music.
Of course all this comes with a catch. Precisely because it's such a desirable place to
reside, space in Seoul is constantly at a premium. There are well over 10 million people here
(more than double that if you include the surrounding satellite towns), and at peak times
you'll feel as if you're sharing the sidewalks, subway, and department stores with nearly all
of them. The surrounding mountains and broad Han River give the city a striking physical
setting and a much-needed touch of nature. But unfortunately, much of Seoul's beauty has
been paved over to make way for roads and drab apartment blocks, and despite the seem-
ingly constant building spree, traffic remains a headache and real estate prices are still by
far the highest in the country. The size and sheer density of a single district—never mind the
whole place—can be downright intimidating. As foreign-friendly as the city has become,
the language barrier still rears its head daily for those who don's speak Korean. Those not
keen on the pungent and sometimes fiery flavors of the local cuisine may struggle at times,
since international dishes aren't available on every corner, and even if they are, they may
have been heavily doctored to suit local tastes.
And what about the people? It's difficult to generalize about Seoulites, since a large pro-
portion of them are originally from elsewhere, but there's some truth to the widely held
view (mainly outside the capital) that they're sophisticated but cool and emotionally dis-
tant, focused largely on their own goals and rarely inclined to lend time or a helping hand
to strangers. Of course, the same could be said for city-dwellers just about everywhere, and
considering the scope and highly competitive nature of the place, Seoul can be surprisingly
unpretentious and kindhearted. People tend to look gruff or rushed but will almost always
respond promptly and politely to requests for assistance—sometimes even when they're not
asked. Scams of the type that pervade some other Asian cities—pickpockets, rigged taxi
meters, and the like—are uncommon, and violent crime is generally not a concern. In smal-
ler family-run shops and restaurants, service is often as cordial as in any country town, es-
pecially if you're a repeat visitor.
There are easier places to come to grips with, but Seoul possesses an energy and air of
possibility that rarely fail to intoxicate, and for most the benefits of residing in the city far
outweigh the disadvantages. More than a few people even learn to call it home permanently.
