Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
tocratic ladies founded by Empress Maria Theresa. However, the wonderful views from the
windows over the Vltava bridges somewhat steal the show.
Lobkovický palác
Jiřská 3 • Daily 10am-6pm; classical concerts 1pm • 275Kč • 233 312 925,
lobkowicz.cz
The
Lobkovickýpalác
wasappropriatedfromthearistocraticLobkowiczfamilyin1939and
again in 1948 before being handed back in 2002. It now displays an impressive selection of
the family's prize possessions (with audio-guide accompaniment by US-born William Lob-
kowiczhimself),includinganarmouryandavastartcollection.Amongthemareaportraitof
the 4-year-old Infanta Margarita Teresa (possibly by Velázquez), niece and first wife of Em-
peror Leopold I. The family has a long history of musical patronage (most notably of Beeth-
oven, who dedicated two of his symphonies to the seventh prince), and the original working
manuscripts by Mozart and Beethoven on show are pretty impressive. Other highlights in-
clude Pieter Brueghel the Elder's sublime
Haymaking
from the artist's famous cycle of sea-
sons,andtwoviews ofLondonbyCanaletto. There'sadecent
café
inthecourtyard andclas-
sicalmusic
concerts
helddailyat1pmintheBaroqueconcerthall(tickets areavailable from
the desk near the café).
The Castle Gardens
Daily: April & Oct 10am-6pm; May & Sept 10am-7pm; June & July 10am-9pm; Aug 10am-8pm • Free
The
Castle Gardens
are among the city's loveliest, particularly in terms of views. The Jižní
zahrady (South Gardens) enjoy wonderful vistas over the city and link up the
terraced gar-
dens
ofMalá Strana, while theKrálovská zahrada (Royal Gardens)allow abetter viewofthe
cathedral and the Vltava's bridges.
Jižní zahrady (South Gardens)
For a superlative view over the city - not to mention a chance to inspect some of Plečnik's
quirky additions to the castle - head for the
Jižní zahrady
, accessible via the architect's
copper-canopied Bull Staircase on the south side of the third courtyard. Originally laid out
in the sixteenth century, but thoroughly remodelled in the 1920s by Josip Plečnik, the first
garden you come to from the Bull Staircase, the
Zahrada na valech
(Garden on the Ram-
parts), features an observation terrace and colonnaded pavilion, below which is an earli-
er eighteenth-century
Hudební pavilón
(Music Pavilion). Two sandstone obelisks beneath
the windows of the Old Royal Palace record the arrival of Slavata and Martinic following
their
defenestration
. In the opposite direction, beyond the Baroque fountain, lies the smaller
Rajskázahrada
(Paradise Garden),onwhoselawnPlečnik plonkedanornamental forty-ton
granite basin suspended on two small blocks. From here, a quick slog up the monumental
staircase will bring you out onto Hradčanské náměstí.
