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Rácskert VIII, Dob utca 40 1 321 0816, facebook.com/racskert ; map . One of the newer
ruin bars, behind the railings ( rács ) of an old car park that hopes to recapture the iconoclast-
ic spirit of the late 1990s. Run by the man behind the first ruin garden in the city, the much
mourned Ráckert. On Fridays, two worlds collide as a traditional folk band plays to the cool
kids. Mon-Wed & Sun 4pm-midnight, Thurs-Sat 4pm-4am.
Szimplakert VII, Kazinczy utca 14 0620 261 8669, szimpla.hu ; map . Occupying a
former stove factory, this is the grandaddy of romkocsma bars. The darkened corridor feeds
a warren of graffiti-strewn, junk-filled rooms, beyond which is the main, partially canop-
ied, courtyard with bars on three sides and an old Trabant for seating. There's free live mu-
sic (jazz, rock, retro, funk) most nights of the week. Although there's a fair old din here at
night, it makes a delightful refuge by day. Farmers' market held here every Sunday. Mon-Sat
noon-3am, Sun 9am-3am.
Szóda VII, Wesselényi utca 18 1 461 0007, facebook.com/szodabar ; map . As enjoyable
in winter as it is in summer, this hip bar behind the main synagogue sports super-cool retro
stylings in the form of red leather seating, odd bits of furnishings, and cartoon strips for wall-
paper. Between Wednesday and Sunday, enthusiastic groovers move downstairs to catch the
latest DJ tunes. Mon-Thurs 5pm-3am, Fri-Sat 5pm-5am.
RISING FROM THE RUINS
Now synonymous with Budapest nightlife, the city's first ruin bars ( romkocsma ) were
guerrilla-like ventures, turning condemned buildings and crumbling courtyards into hip
summer drinking spots. Decorated with graffiti and collages, the first wave of bars also put
on entertainment in the form of music, film-screenings and poetry readings. Once the au-
thorities forcedouta romkocsma itwouldsimplytakeitsnameelsewhere: atthestartofthe
summer word would spread where the latest incarnations of the Szóda , West Balkan and
Mumus would be. This purely nomadic existence began to change when councils began to
realize the commercial potential of the bars, not least in attracting tourists. With a relaxa-
tion in attitudes places such as Szimpla and Kuplung began to open year-round and focus
on turning a profit. While this has caused some inevitable commercialization most bars re-
tain an undeniable wackiness, and the opening of Rácskert , for example, hints at a return
to the anarchic spirit.
TOP 5 RUIN BARS
Café Bobek
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Szimplakert
Instant
Rácskert
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