Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Like something resembling a Ceauşescu folly, the National Theatre could have been
plucked straight out of Bucharest, its exterior and environs strewn with random architectural
references andstatuary.The Classical facade isareplica ofthe frontage ofthe original theatre
on Blaha Lujza tér, torn down to build the metro in 1964 - a Communist plot to undermine
Hungary's identity, many said - which condemned the company to a dump in the backstreets
of Pest while the debate continued as to where this national institution should be housed. A
proposed move to Erzsébet tér never materialised and the theatre moved here in 2002.
Palace of Arts and Ludwig Museum
Művészetek Palotája • IX, Komor Marcell utca 1 • Palace of Arts 1 555 3001, mupa.hu Ludwig Mu-
seum Kortárs Művészti Múzeum • Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, temporary exhibitions open till 8pm • 800Ft for per-
manent collection, 1300-2000Ft for temporary exhibitions • 1 555 3444, ludwigmuseum.hu
Across the way is the Palace of Arts , a vast edifice that is the home of the excellent Phil-
harmonic Orchestra. Resembling a dull office block by day, it comes alive each evening with
spectacular lighting and events - from classical and operatic works to popular and world mu-
sic, jazz and dance. No expense has been spared to make this a top venue; particularly in the
main Béla Bartók concert hall, whose acoustics are so sharp that some orchestras are said to
dislike it, as you can hear their mistakes.
The Palace also encompasses the Ludwig Museum or Museum of Contemporary Art, es-
tablished in 1996 to build upon an earlier bequest by the German industrialist Peter Lud-
wig, prints and portraits of whom hang by the entrance to the main exhibition hall. There are
some big-hitters on display here, notably USPopArtists Warhol ( Single Elvis ) and Lichten-
stein ( Vicki ), a trio of paintings by Picasso , including Musketeer with a Sword and Matador ,
and YokoOno 's glass-encased, pristine-white chess set entitled Play it by Trust - the artist's
metaphor for the futility of war.
Native and central/eastern European artists are well represented too, typically in such styles
as Hyper-Realism and neo-Primitivism. Look out, too, for the occasional piece by Judit
Reigl , perhaps Hungary's most famous contemporary artist, best known for her visceral sur-
realist/abstract works of art. The museum also hosts first class temporary exhibitions - so
the permanent collection is not always on view.
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