BASICS - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 43

whereas in the remoter regions of eastern Guna Yala you could be seated on a plank in a leak-
ing motorized dugout bailing out with a yoghurt carton, having spent a couple of hours ask-
ing round for a ride. Frequent water-taxis serve Bocas from Almirante for fixed fares ($6),
whereas any trip to the Pacific island of Coiba may mean getting a group of interested people
together and negotiating a deal with a fisherman.
Travelling by motorized dugout or occasionally, if you're lucky, in a slightly more comfy
skiff ( panga ), is the norm among the communities of Guna Yala and Darién. If a boat is
already heading the way you want to travel the fare will be cheaper. Otherwise, private boat
rental (which needs to cover fuel and the boat operator's time and often their assistant) can
be expensive; awareness of the going price for diesel will help your ability to haggle, as will
knowledge of the amount of fuel necessary to cover the distance given the size of the en-
gine. Note that the seaworthiness of vessels varies enormously and many are overloaded and
lack life jackets even when heading for long trips on potentially hazardous waters. Every few
months a boat somewhere sinks or capsizes and people drown. Make sure you check out your
transport before committing to a journey.
By bike
Away from the Interamericana and Panama City, cycling is pleasant - with wonderful views
and quiet roads - and growing in popularity both as recreation and a means of transport,
though you won't find cycle lanes or cycle routes. Mountain bike rental is on the increase
in tourist areas such as El Valle, Boquete, Bocas and Santa Fé, though the quality of the ma-
chine on offer is extremely variable, as are the rates ($3-5/hr, $10-15/day). In Panama City a
couple of rental places are on the Calzada de Amador, which actually possesses a cycle path,
as does the recently inaugurated Cinta Costera. Exodus, the UK adventure holiday specialist
( exodus.co.uk ), offers cycling holidays in Panama.
< Back to Basics
ACCOMMODATION
From secluded mountain eco-lodges to thatched cane cabañas on a deserted island, from
partying backpackers' hostels to smart boutique hotels, Panama offers a wide range of
accommodation. Panama City inevitably has the greatest variety, though prices are gen-
erally a lot higher than in the rest of the country. In touristy areas such as Bocas and
Boquete prices are creeping up and more lodgings now exist at the higher end of the
market, though there is very little outside Panama City that could truly be described
as luxury. Nevertheless, the number of comfortable lodges (often foreign-owned) and
B&Bs is increasing. In Guna Yala you could just as likely be sleeping in a hammock,
while in the Darién you might be snoozing on the raised wooden floor of a traditional
Emberá dwelling.