CONTEXTS - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 448

are rare - most serpents are as wary of humans as humans are of them. The most feared,
accounting for almost all fatal snakebites in Panama, is the fer-de-lance pit viper, which in-
habits a variety of lowland habitats. Commonly dubbed “ equis ” (“X”) for the markings on its
well-camouflaged brown, cream and black skin, it often exceeds 2m. The female gives birth
to fifty to eighty live young, which incredibly are already 30cm, not to mention venomous,
when born. Initially arboreal, feeding on frogs and lizards, they become terrestrial with age.
The world's largest pit viper, the dangerous bushmaster , can reach 3m, but fortunately is
only encountered in remote forests and like most pit vipers is nocturnal. In contrast, Panama's
various species of coral snake , both venomous and benign, all possess striking black, red and
yellow-banded markings; since it's difficult to differentiate among them, it's best to assume
danger. Positively mellow in comparison - though packing a powerful bite if provoked - the
giant boa constrictor is Panama's only endangered snake, hunted for its prized skin.
Similarly threatened is the green iguana , which ranges from lime-green to dusty brown in
colour and is pursued for its eggs and tasty meat, earning it the nickname “ gallina de palo ”.
Despite its dragon-like appearance, it is a docile forest-living herbivore that likes to be near
water; the large flaps of skin under its chin (dewflaps) are used to regulate body temperature
and for courtship and territorial displays. The tetchier, charcoal-grey spiny-tailed or black
iguana is most commonly found on the Azuero Peninsula. The world's fastest lizard, it es-
capes predators by hitting speeds of up to 35kph; the miniature version, a 30cm basilisk ,
takes flight across water on its hind legs and partially webbed feet, earning it the nickname
“ Jesus Christ ” lizard .
In Panama's mangrove-filled estuaries and mud-lined waterways, including around Lago
Gatún and Lago Bayano, crocs and caimans lurk. The endangered, aggressive American
crocodile has actually increased its numbers here, as has the smaller, more docile spectacled
caiman .
Amphibians
Of all amphibians, frogs are the most compelling. The country's emblematic and revered
golden frog is, sadly, under grave threat due in part to the chytrid fungus , which has been
decimating amphibians worldwide; this has prompted an Amphibian Ark rescue mission (
amphibianrescue.org ) to seek out healthy specimens to breed in captivity (see El Nispero ).
The brilliantly coloured miniature poison-dart frogs , with markings as varied as wallpaper,
are relatively easy to see, especially in Bocas del Toro , as they hop around the leaf litter under
trees by day. But the rainforests harbour other equally extraordinary specimens, less visible
since they're primarily nocturnal: the tiny lime-green glass frog , whose inexplicably trans-
parent belly affords you the dubious pleasure of observing its viscera and digestive processes;
the flying frog with giant webbed feet that help parachute it through the air; and the milk
frog - so named after the toxic mucous it secretes when threatened - which possesses two
giant vocal sacs either side of the head that also act as buoyancy aids in water.