THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 424

The contrast in mood and architecture between the two villages is striking: in bustling
Sambú - where all accommodation and eating options are located - cement pathways wind
between tightly packed houses of various architectural styles, accommodating a mixed pop-
ulation of Emberá, Wounaan, mestizos and Afro-Darienites; across the river, quieter Puerto
Indio, at the western limit of the Distrito Sambú, of which it is the capital, comprises an in-
digenous population living in traditional wooden housing raised on stilts, where afternoon
social activity centres round the basketball court or football pitch.
TOURS FROM SAMBÚ AND PUERTO INDIO
In Puerto Indio , the tourism committee, based in the Oficina del Congreso, offers a range
of day excursions to the Distrito Sambú (for which you'll need to provide your own food
and water), including a guided walk round the village taking in a nearby lake, a half-day
excursion to a waterfall involving a 45-minute boat ride and a modest rainforest walk, and
lengthier ventures to the communities of La Chunga or Pavarandó. In all cases, overnight
stays can easily be arranged, either in the casa comunal or in someone's house. Arquinio
Dogirama ( [e-mail] ) and Domicilio Cardena (La Chunga public phone
333 2516) are guides authorized by the comarca 's tourism committee, though each village
has its own guide.
Sambú guides are not allowed to guide within the comarca , but can offer excursions to
rainforest and Emberá communities that lie outside the comarca boundaries.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: SAMBÚ AND PUERTO INDIO
By plane Air Panama operates two flights a week from Panama City via Garachiné (Wed &
Sat; 1hr; $87 one way).
By boat Most commercial traffic to Sambú and Puerto Indio ($22 from La Palma, $25 from
Puerto Quimba) occurs on Mondays and Fridays.
By boat and 4WD If there isn't a boat going directly to Sambú, in the dry season (Jan-April)
you could go to Garachiné , where you can usually hitch a ride to Sambú along the dirt road
($5-6/person for a colectivo , $40 in total if a special trip is necessary).
Police registration The police checkpoint is halfway down the airstrip in Sambú.
Fees The $10 entry fee to the comarca should be paid at the Oficina del Congreso in Puerto
Indio.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Aqui me Quedo By the airstrip. Housed in a sturdy cane building behind the shop, Benedicta
prepares good breakfasts and solid lunches for around $4. Evening meals are a case of what's
left over. Daily 7am-8pm.