Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Permits
If you're travelling independently, you'll need to obtain a permit from
SENAFRONT in Panama City (see
Safety in the Darién
) to access the Parque Nacional Dar-
ién, although the guides can sort out the permits on your behalf if you contact them in ad-
vance of arrival in the Darien. Provide them with your passport details.
El Real
The deceptively fast-flowing waters of the Río Chucunaque snake down 6km from Yaviza
through variegated walls of water chestnuts, banana plantations, expansive trees and pasture-
land to the low-key grassy bank “jetty” of
EL REAL
on the Río Tuira. From the jetty, it's
a sweltering fifteen-minute walk into the town proper - another one-time fortified colonial
settlement, now a pleasant if somnolent collection of houses constructed from various com-
binations of wood, zinc and concrete, and a couple of churches, interwoven with a network
of cement pathways. The vibe in El Real is far more relaxed than in Yaviza, though, as with
Yaviza, it's only likely to serve as a jumping-off point to somewhere else, either a boat trip
down the sweeping meanders of the Río Tuira, or, more likely, a hike to the ANAM refuge at
Rancho Frío.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: EL REAL
By boat
Piraguas
regularly make the 45min journey from Yaviza to El Real, unless delayed
by a major downpour;
colectivo
rates are generally $7/person.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Fonda Caña Blanca
If you're just after a drink, head for this traditional thatch-and-cane
can-
tina
.
Daily 7am-7pm.
Hotel El Nazareño
228 3673.
Housed in a dilapidated wooden two-storey building which
loo
ks on the verge of collapse, with intermittently functioning plumbing and a DIY shower.
$15
Restaurante Doña Lola
Near the church.
This friendly place serves very tasty food -
plantain, lentils and fried chicken.
Daily 7am-8pm.
Rancho Frío
The only ANAM refuge still in operation within the park,
Rancho Frío
, sometimes called
Pirre Station, is scenically situated on the shady banks of the Río Perescenico, with several
trails
leading off from the camp, including the serious overnight trek to the cloud forest
of
Cerro Pirre
(1200m), which requires lugging tent, sleeping bag and provisions up the
mountain; it can be chilly at night, so pack something warm. The
Sendero de las Antennas
provides a stiff all-day alternative that culminates in a hilltop police post, affording sweeping
views of La Palma and the Golfo de San Miguel, with the Pacific as backdrop. Less strenuous
walks can be had closer to camp, but still require a guide - the most popular is the two-hour
circular
Sendero Rancho Frío
, which takes in a waterfall and natural
piscina
. During the
