Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
small military outpost across the border in Panama, at the eastern end of Guna Yala. Note
that in high season there is usually more than one departure a day from Turbo. Since there is
no regular crossing to Puerto Obaldía, departure times and charges from
Capurganá
depend
on numbers, though the place is pleasant enough to hang out in for a few days while you're
waiting for fellow travellers to roll up. Note also that both sea crossings can be exceedingly
rough (especially between Nov and Feb) and are not for the faint-hearted; the boats are small
and the waves loom large, though life jackets are provided. A large plastic bag to cover your
luggage is a must, as well as some waterproof protection for yourself.
Morning flights to and from
Puerto Obaldía
(1hr; US$111) are operated by Air Panama
(daily except Sat), though timings can vary. If you are feeling adventurous and are prepared
to hang around in
Puerto Obaldía
, you can get a ride on one of the speedboats bound for Cartí,
at the western end of Guna Yala but it is as expensive as flying. Before leaving Colombia,
get an exit stamp from
immigration
at Capurganá (daily 9am-5pm) and an entry stamp for
Panama on arrival in Puerto Obaldía (daily 8am-4pm). Military police will meet the boat and
escort you to the relevant authorities. Your belongings will be thoroughly searched for drugs
and you are likely to be required to show proof of onward travel and possibly a
yellow fever
vaccination certificate
and sufficient funds (a credit card will do) to cover your stay. A seri-
ous grilling and further searches await you at customs and immigration at Albrook Airport in
Panama City.
SAILING TO PANAMA
An increasingly popular passage from or to Colombia involves a four- to five-day
sailing
trip
from Cartagena or Sapzurro (close to the Colombia-Panama border), taking in some
of the more remote tropical islands of Guna Yala en route to Cartí (from where it's another
US$40 to reach Panama City (see
By boat
)
,
Portobelo
or
Puerto Lindo
. Typically back-
packer rates are US$480-600 per person from Cartagena (US$450-500 from Sapzurro),
including food and non-alcoholic beverages, though some require you to help around the
ship, be it crewing or cooking. In addition to being cheaper, the Sapzurro route has the ad-
vantage of avoiding the roughest seas by hugging the coast, thereby affording more time to
explore Guna Yala. Be prepared to hang around at your departure point for a few days since
preparations can take some time. Horror stories abound of drunken captains and poorly
maintained boats, so do your homework; hostel recommendations of particular captains
can be helpful but should be viewed critically since hostels usually receive commission
for supplying passengers. You're best getting the lowdown from other travellers who have
made the trip. Travelling between November and February can be dangerous with rough
seas, so much so that some captains do not make the crossing during that period.
