THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 402

THE EMBERÁ AND WOUNAAN
Two separate but related ethnic groups speaking mutually unintelligible languages, the ma-
jority of Panama's Emberá (warriors famed for their poisonous blow-darts) and Wounaan
(more noted for their artistry) inhabit wood-and-thatch huts along the Darién's numerous
rivers - though the increasing presence of zinc roofs and cement buildings is indicative of
encroaching modernization. As former semi-nomadic hunter-gatherers, it is only relatively
recently that their communities started to live in fixed villages, a government-encouraged
project primarily to facilitate schooling and access to modern health care; before, family
homes, though still sprinkled along the rivers as they are today, formed temporary bases
from which to hunt and practise limited slash-and-burn agriculture before moving on, al-
lowing the forest to recover.
The groups' wooden houses are built on stilts, to protect them from wild animals and un-
welcome intruders, as well as rising floodwaters. Semi-open sides allow cooling breezes
to enter while preserving a degree of privacy. The platform, accessed by a tree trunk, with
notches carved out as steps, constitutes a living space with a fire pit for cooking; crucially,
the heat prevents the thatched roof from rotting during the rainy season. Traditionally, the
largest building in the community is the bujia or casa comunal , a splendid circular con-
struction with a soaring conical ceiling, where meetings are held, guests are received and
ceremonies take place. Missionaries have been chipping away at traditional beliefs since
the time of the conquistadors, and while shamanism persists, villagers are more likely today
to head for the government medical centre than put their trust in traditional medicine.
For an up-close experience of life in an Emberá or Wounaan village , consider staying the
night .
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND: THE DARIÉN
Most tourists visit the Darién on a tour but it is entirely possible, and becoming more com-
mon, to visit independently - though you need to be flexible and have sufficient time, Span-
ish and, more often than not, funds.
INDEPENDENT TRAVEL
BY PLANE
To Jaqué Air Panama ( 316 9000, flyairpanama.com ) operates mid-morning flights from
Albrook airport to Jaqué via Bahía Piña (Mon & Fri; 1hr 15min; $95 one way), with almost
immediate return flights to the capital.
To Garachiné or Sambú Air Panama flies to Garachiné ($85 one way) and Sambú ($87 one
way), in two hops mid-morning (Wed & Sat; 1hr), with almost immediate return flights to the
capital.