THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 391

ACCOMMODATION
Dad Ibe Lodge Dad Ibe island, 5min boat ride west of Ailigandi 6112 5448, dadibe-
lodge.net . There's no accommodation on Ailigandi, but the private island of Dad Ibe, to the
west, is home to an appealing lodge of three brightly painted wooden waterside cabins with
plenty of hammock space to curl up with a book. Rates include meals, one daily excursion,
use of cayucos - including to Ailigandi - and airport transfer. A stre nuou s all-day hike to a
waterfall, or river exploration by dugout, is worth the additional cost. $106 /person
Achutupu and Mamitupu
Five kilometres east of Ailigandi, the unusual crescent-shaped island of Achutupu has a de-
ceptively spacious feel, dotted with banana trees and coconut palms. There's a strip of sand
that might optimistically be called a beach, though swimming is inadvisable due to the usual
pollution. The village has a primary school, health centre and restaurant by the pier, alongside
a basketball court. There's nowhere to stay on Achutupu itself, but a couple of higher-end
accommodation options are close at hand.
Only a few hundred metres east of Achutupu, Mamitupu has ten sailas governing a tradi-
tional village of about 1200. Photography is forbidden here, though it is permitted on excur-
sions to the mainland.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: ACHUTUPU AND MAMITUPU
By plane The airstrip, 200m across from Achutupu on the mainland, receives daily Air
Panama flights ($85 one way). Motorized dugouts greet the plane and will ferry you to Achu-
tupu, or Mamitupu (a 5min boat ride away), for a few dollars.
ACCOMMODATION
Akwadup Lodge West of Achutupu 396 4805 or 6137 7668, akwaduplodge.com .
Located a 5min boat ride west of Achutupu, this exclusive lodge offers comfort and seclusion
in a row of seven comfortable (two double beds in each) over-the-water wooden bungalows
- rather close together but nicely decorated - with solar-powered ceiling fans and hot water.
Rates, which are on the high side, include meals, lodg ings and airport transfer, but snorkel
rental ($10) and community taxes ($14) are extra. $149 /person
Cabañas Mamitupu Mamitupu 7030 5846 (Pablo Nuñez, who speaks English); or contact
Agostín Silva at Hotel Costa Azul in Panama City ( 225 4703). Set apart from the main vil-
lage in a palm-shaded grassy end of the island stand four simple sandy-floor cane huts, with
decent mattresses protected by mosquito nets, a good-size table, private washing area (for
bucket and water ablutions) and solar-powered e lect ricity. Flush toilets (using a septic tank)
are shared, as is the pleasant rancho dining area. $75 /person
Dolphin Lodge (Uaguinega) Uagitupo 836 5333, dolphinlodgepanama.com . A stone's
throw across the water from Achutupu, on a tiny islet, this easy-going place has simple wood-