Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
by
plane
via the twin-island hub of
Corazón de Jesús
and
Narganá
. Forty kilometres further
east, sprawling
Playón Chico
presents an interesting combination of modernity and tradition
but is generally only visited by guests at two of the
comarca
's more comfortable lodgings,
which lie close by and make sound bases for exploring the area. The region possesses a hand-
ful of delightful sand-fringed coconut isles on which to idle, but its beaches don't match the
breathtaking beauty of many in the western end of the archipelago, though the mainland ex-
cursions into primeval
rainforest
more than compensate.
ETIQUETTE WHEN VISITING GUNA YALA
In Guna Yala, particularly in the more remote areas, it is important to remember that you
are a guest of the Guna, irrespective of how much you have paid for the privilege, and
should abide by their laws. On islands less frequented by visitors it is customary to ask
permission
from the local
saila
when you visit a particular community or wish to stay on
an island, as indeed the Guna themselves do.
Photography
is another contentious area: on
some islands it is forbidden, on others it is governed by strict regulations. Never photo-
graph anyone without asking. Traditional beliefs still held by some of the older generation
maintain that a photograph takes away a part of the soul, which is why you should resist
the temptation to surreptitiously snap away. Generally $1 is charged to take a single pho-
tograph, more for group shots, whereas video cameras, if permitted, can cost around $15.
Women selling
molas
- the distinctive brightly coloured embroidered cloth panels - will
usually allow you to photograph them if you purchase an item, but do not presume that the
cost includes the photo charge.
While lazing in a hammock on one of the coconut islands, beachwear is fine, but you
should
dress
more modestly in villages - no bikini tops or bare chests; villagers may not
say anything, but it doesn't mean you haven't caused offence. The Guna are particularly
sensitive about the
onmaked nega
(meeting house) and the cemeteries on the mainland -
never enter or photograph these without permission.
Alcohol
too is a thorny issue. Tradi-
tionally large clay pots of
chicha
are prepared for the whole village for ceremonies; once
the jars are exhausted, the drinking spree is over. Nowadays, communities vary in their reg-
ulations on alcohol: in some places drinking is unregulated, but people are fined if found
drunk; some allow seco and beer to supplement the
chicha
at celebrations but not at other
times; some have licensing hours; and others ban alcohol completely, though may allow its
sale to tourists. Always enquire first, and drink discreetly if alcohol is available to tourists
but not to villagers.
Narganá and Corazón de Jesús
A quick glance round either
Narganá
(Yandub) or
Corazón de Jesús
(Akuanusadup) and
it's easy to forget you're in Guna Yala. The paved squares are dotted with benches, lampposts
