Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
palms, shrubs and delightful hibiscus flowers. Several families have now jumped on the tour-
ism bandwagon, erecting cane-and-thatch dwellings, and slinging up hammocks - some cor-
doning off their patch. Still, with most
cabañas
set back off the sand, nestled in the under-
growth, the nicest stretch of beach remains unspoilt.
Kuanidup
Approaching the wafting coconut palms of
Kuanidup
, 10km north of Río Sidra, a row of
seven smart cane-and-thatch
cabañas
at the edge of the sparkling white sand seemingly stand
to attention. Though idyllically located, within striking distance of the Cayos Holandéses, the
tear-drop island offers relatively little shade and the beach is small.
GUNA CEMETERIES
One of the most fascinating tours offered by Guna communities is to their traditional Guna
burial ground
(
neg uan
) on the mainland. From afar the cemetery resembles a miniature
village, a mass of thatched rooftops, which turn out to be shelters protecting the graves
from the rain. Beneath each one is an elongated mound of earth, representing the pregnant
belly of Nabguana (Mother Nature) as she gives birth to the deceased in the heavenly spirit
world (Baba Nega), as well as everyday utensils, clothing and food, which are left to ac-
company the deceased on their journey and serve as gifts for relatives who have already
passed away.
Before burial the deceased is bathed in aromatic herbs and dressed in their best clothes,
their cheeks painted with the natural reddish dye of
achiote
, a colour believed to ward off
the evil spirits (
boni
). After villagers have paid their respects, the body is laid to rest in a
deep grave in a hammock oriented towards the rising sun in the east, symbolic of the be-
ginning of new life, which is also sometimes alluded to by laying cotton threads - repres-
enting the umbilical cord - across the corpse. A dugout tethered nearby is left to carry the
deceased to their ancestors.
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND: RÍO SIDRA AND AROUND
By boat
Río Sidra is a 50min boat ride ($20) from Cartí. Boat transfers from Cartí to Isla
Pelicano and Senidup (50min) generally cost $20. Both islands are around a 30min boat ride
north of Río Sidra. Naranjo Chico is 20min north of Río Sidra by boat, 45min from Cartí, or
55min from El Porvenir.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Cabañas Eneida
Naranjo Chico 6723 0436.
Probably the nicest of the budget lodgings,
with decent cane
cabañas
, more serviceable toilets and showers than most, good food and a
pleasant beachside dining area. Campers can
brin
g their own tent
and
food, or do a meal deal
for an extra $15. Boat transfer $20. Camping
$25
/person,
cabañas
$50
/person
