Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Río Sidra and around
Some 15km east of Cartí, just off the mainland, lies
Río Sidra
; formerly a key portal into
the archipelago until its airport was closed a few years ago, it is still an important settle-
ment within the
comarca
. Originally two separate islands, the communities of
Urgandi
and
Mamartupu
combined to make Río Sidra - a community of close on two thousand - by re-
claiming the land in between. Each retains its own identity, maintaining separate
sailas
, meet-
ing houses and churches - and each charge a community visitors' tax - though they share a
school and basketball court, plus the two nearby public pay phones. Facing the town from
the main jetty, Urgandi lies to the right, Mamartupu to the left; the main drag, a broad sandy
boulevard with a number of grocery stores, bisects both, running the length of the island.
The island is convenient for visiting Nusatupu and Isla Maquina, famous for its
molas
, and
is a popular village excursion for the backpacker islands of Senidup and Isla Pelicano. Other
scenic diversions in the area include the lovely sandy island of
Bigirdupu
and starfish haven
of
Isla Salar
, while the mainland attractions include a boat trip up the
Río Masargandi
, call-
ing in at the cemetery at its mouth, and a trek through luxuriant rainforest to the once-sacred
waterfall of Saiba ($15/group), where you can cool off in the delightful freshwater pool at its
base.
Nusatupu and Isla Maquina
A small community of around four hundred just across the water from Río Sidra, the un-
fortunately named
Nusatupu
(Isla Ratón or “Rat Island”) does not harbour any more of
these rodents than anywhere else - though sandflies are a major nuisance here in winter
(May-December). Diminutive nearby
Isla Maquina
(Mormarketupo), whose four-hundred-
plus inhabitants are less accustomed to visitors, is known for its fine
molas
.
Isla Pelicano and Senidup
The postage-stamp-sized islands of
Isla Pelicano (Gorgidup)
and
Senidup (Isla Chiquita)
,
crowned with coconut palms and fringed with strips of soft sand, are perennial favourites
with backpackers at the budget end of budget since they offer the cheapest packages in the
comarca
and stays are easily organized through Panama City hostels. As a result there can of-
ten be something of a holiday-camp atmosphere on them. Of the two, Senidup is the slightly
larger and better tended, though it's rather cluttered with
cabañas
and there's now an un-
prepossessing chainlink fence dividing the island. Possible
excursions
from both take in the
village of Soledad Miria (Miria Ubigandup), which is noted for fine
molas
, or the glorious
white-sand beaches of Naranjo Chico or Pidertupu.
Naranjo Chico
Belying its diminutive tag,
Naranjo Chico
(Narasgandupbipi) is the second-largest island in
the area after Naranjo Grande. It is particularly lovely for its distinctive hourglass shape, gor-
geous swathe of white-powder sand, off which you can snorkel, and vegetation of coconut
