Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Wichub-Wala and Ukuptupu
Wichub-Wala
is a bustling yet relaxed island that's often visited by cruise ships, hence the
proliferation of arts and crafts. In addition to the usual sandy pathways and cane-and-thatch
huts there are some decaying cement structures, including a former swimming pool, now full
of large tropical fish. To the west, the tiny semi-submerged private coral outcrop of
Ukup-
tupu
was formerly home to a Smithsonian marine research station until the institute was ejec-
ted from the
comarca
in 1998. The islet, on which the accommodation is the only building,
provides a mellow hideaway - there's nowhere to stretch your legs, but Wichub-Wala and
Nalunega are a stone's throw away.
Nalunega
Just south of Ukuptupu lies
Nalunega
, “the house of the macaw” in Guna, since these
brightly coloured birds were resident on the island when it was first colonized. A more ap-
pealing village than Wichub-Wala, with a population of around five hundred, it has broader
streets dotted with shady trees populated with parrots, while traditional cane-and-thatch
buildings rub shoulders with occasional aluminium-topped cement structures. At the centre
lie a primary school, the meeting hall and the basketball court.
Nalunega's museum
Signposted off the basketball court • Daily 7am-6pm • $2
Nalunega's
museum
houses an unusual collection that is particularly worthwhile if you have
reasonable Spanish. The curator, Teodoro Torres, offers a fascinating narrative of Guna cul-
ture illustrated through his woodcarvings and paintings from recycled materials, such as boat
sails that have washed up on the beach.
Ogobsibudub and Nidirbidup
A tiny coral-sand drop in the ocean southeast of El Porvenir,
Ogobsibudub
(
Coco Blanco
)
sports a small sandy beach that slides into reef-protected shallow waters. There's better swim-
ming, however, a few hundred metres away on the neighbouring islet of
Nidirbidup
where
you can also camp, being ferried over for meals on Ogobsibudub - which makes the place
ridiculously crowded in peak season.
