Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
not be included in the tour cost. Independent travellers may be able to catch a ride (for a fee);
otherwise other boatmen are usually hanging around with whom you can negotiate a deal.
BY BOAT
The two entry points by sea are El Porvenir, in the northwest, and Puerto Obaldía in the south-
eastern corner, where you'll almost inevitably be arriving from Colombia. Backpackers trav-
elling to and from Colombia by boat from Puerto Lindo or Portobelo usually spend a couple
of days in Guna Yala en route .
From the northwest There are no scheduled ferries, but occasional cargo boats leave
Miramar in Colón Province, arriving in El Porvenir, where you can usually find boat transport
to other places within the comarca . Do not try to arrange passage from Coco-Solo port in
Colón; though once the main, albeit extremely dangerous, sea route east, it should now be
discarded in favour of safer options, though none are without risk given the unpredictability
of the sea conditions.
From the southeast Smallish fibreglass motorboats ( lanchas ) head up the coast from Puerto
Obaldía to Cartí ($100/person), depending on demand, several times a week, and will drop
you off at other islands en route. Note that the sea is very rough and dangerous between
Puerto Obaldía and Achutupu (especially Dec-March), and the experience is likely to be ex-
tremely wet and uncomfortable. Make sure the boat has two engines and life jackets as a min-
imum, is robust enough to withstand the waves, and preferably has a roof.
GETTING AROUND
WITH AN ORGANIZED TOUR
If you are on an organized tour, inter-island transport will be arranged by your hosts. Included
in the package will be one or two tours per day to another beach or village-island, or to the
mainland. Some lodgings also offer optional excursions for set prices. Generally though, if
you want to visit somewhere not on the schedule you will need to pay for another boat and
pilot. Cost will depend on the distance, the boat's engine size and quality and the number of
people wanting to do the trip. It will also depend on whether your lodgings have two boats -
not all do - although sometimes they manage to stagger timings for pick-ups and drop-offs. If
you are staying in a hotel on a populated village-island such as Carti Sugdup, then you have
more options for additional boat hire.
INDEPENDENT TRAVEL
Inter-island transport Since there are no fixed itineraries or schedules for boats, you need
to ask around about transport heading the way you want to go. This is relatively easy in the
populated western region of the comarca , and not too difficult if you are heading westwards
in the general direction of Cartí from other parts of the region since most islands have fre-
quent boats with Guna bound for Panama City. Transport in such cases is inevitably cheaper
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