THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 354

before emptying into the sea, its progress blocked by a sandbank, on which the poorly main-
tained ANAM refuge is located. Behind the hut lies a long stretch of beach, where hawksbill,
leatherback and green turtles nest.
THE WEST INDIAN MANATEE
Occasionally called a “sea cow”, the West Indian manatee ( trichechus manatus ) re-
sembles a cross between a sea lion, a hippo and an elephant, its barrel-like greyish-brown
body propelled by two flippers and a spatula tail, its large snout equipped with a prehensile
upper lip that helps it feed. Adults average 3m in length though can reach 4.5m, includ-
ing tail, and weigh in at 200-600 kilos; to sustain such a size, they have to spend 6-8
hours a day munching floating or submerged greenery. When not feeding, they often rest,
floating like large logs on or below the surface, frequently surfacing to breathe. Moving
easily between freshwater and marine environments, the shy yet playful mammals are sur-
prisingly agile, and can exceed 25km/h for short bursts. In Panama, the vast majority of
these aquatic behemoths inhabit the wetlands of Bocas del Toro, though in 1964 a small
number were relocated to Lago Gatún by the Americans in a failed attempt to tackle the
rampant spread of water hyacinth in the canal. Though lacking natural predators, manatees
are threatened by human activity , experiencing collisions with motorboats and getting
tangled up in fishing nets or canal locks, while suffering from loss or pollution of habitat.
What's more, since they only give birth to a single calf every three to five years, it takes a
long time to boost numbers.
ARRIVAL AND TOURS: HUMEDALES DE SAN SAN POND SAK
By bus Tours leave from the AAMVECONA office by the road bridge on the Río San San,
6km northwest of Changuinola, on the road to the Costa Rica border. Take the Guabito-Las
Tablas bus , getting off at the bridge, or take a taxi ($6).
Wetlands tours To visit the wetlands you can either go with a Bocas tour operator or with
AAMVECONA ( 6679 7238, aamvecona.com ) , who manage activities here. The most
popular excursion is the manatee tour ($45/person), which gives you several hours gliding
through the wetlands by boat, with great birdwatching opportunities, in addition to waiting
for, and, with luck, watching manatees feeding. Arrange to go early in the morning and be
prepared to cover up well and/or douse yourself with repellent as the sandflies on the viewing
platform are vicious.
Birdwatching A walking birdwatching tour is also offered ($25/person), and, in the season
(March-July) evening excursions (8pm) are organized to watch leatherback turtles nesting
($10/person for a minimum of 6 people). You can stay overnight in the rudimentary and
rather unappealing bunkhouse at the far end of the lagoon ($12), where turtle conservation
volunteers lodge but you'd need to take all your food or arrange to have meals prepared.