THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 350

In contrast, virtually no visitors venture east of Chiriquí Grande, into the increasingly de-
forested Comarca Ngäbe-Buglé , where rivers cut through the Caribbean slopes of the Cor-
dillera Central, flowing into the Golfo de los Mosquitos, backed by the 29km Playa Chiriquí,
home to a major turtle conservation programme.
Silico Creek
Km 25, Punta Peña • Community tourism 6233 8706, urari.org
Between Chiriquí Grande and Almirante, on the border of the Comarca Ngäbe-Buglé, lies
the Ngäbe community of Silico Creek , a dynamic village that has successfully retained tra-
ditional values while adapting to the modern economy. Though day-visits are common, you
can also stay in the community's thatched cabañas ($15/person) or even arrange a homestay
($10/person), giving you more time to learn about the community's organic permaculture
projects in coffee, plantains, banana, yuca and, most successfully, cocoa. In addition to cocoa
tours ($10/person), you can hike through the rainforest to a waterfall (4-6hr; $15/person), or
undertake a whole-day trek to visit an indigenous organic farm ($30/person).
Almirante
The ramshackle town of Almirante , its rusting tin-roofed wooden houses propped up on stilts
over the Caribbean, is the departure point for water-taxis to the Bocas del Toro archipelago.
Like Bocas, the port is a product of the banana boom, and suffered a similar decline. Unlike
Bocas, there is no tourism-fuelled renaissance on the horizon. Basic services are lacking; un-
employment and its associated ills are a major concern; most visitors pass through as quickly
as possible.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: CHIRIQUÍ GRANDE TO ALMIRANTE
BY BUS
To Silico Creek David-Changuinola buses pass through Silico Creek (2hr 30min-3hr from
David; 30-40min from Almirante; 1-1hr 30min from Changuinola).
To Almirante Through buses from Panama City, David or Changuinola will drop you at the
intersection (“La Ye”), on the main road, from where it's a short, shared-taxi ride ($1/person)
to the dock. Buses stopping at Almirante go to the town's small bus terminal, just after the
water-taxi stop.
To David or Panama City Regular buses from Changuinola to David stop at Almirante
every 25min (3.45am-7.30pm; 4-4hr 30min); there are two daily buses to Panama City
(8.30am, 7.30pm; 10hr; $23).
BY MINIBUS
Minibuses

career between Almirante and Changuinola (every 20-25min, 6am-10pm;

30min), where you can get connections for the border.