THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 301

STAYING WITH THE NGÄBE IN SOLOY
Though the Ngäbe are Panama's most numerous indigenous citizens by far, they see con-
siderably fewer tourists than the Guna or Emberá, and are understandably wary of outsiders
given the recent history of conflict - sometimes violent - with both the Panamanian au-
thorities and international mining corporations. Undertaking a homestay in the mountain
community of Soloy ( comarcangobebugle.com ) , in the southwest corner of the Comarca
Ngäbe-Buglé provides a unique opportunity to begin to learn about the Ngäbe, their tradi-
tions and their present-day challenges, though you'll need some Spanish to make the most
of it, and be prepared for very rudimentary lodgings and simple food. The village itself has
no nucleus, but rather is strung out several kilometres along the main road and the Río So-
loy. The river, and the even more powerful Río Fonseca into which it flows, are crucial to
community life and are also the basis for tourist activities (most around $15/person), such
as hikes to waterfalls and rafting; visitors can also go hiking (40min-6hr), horseriding and
learn the processes of extracting plant fibres and mixing natural dyes to make a traditional
kri (string bag).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
Buses leave David's main bus terminal for Soloy approximately every hour when full
(7am-7pm; 1hr 30min); alternatively take a bus bound for Horconcitos, get off at the turn-
off south to Horconcitos from the Intermericana, where pick-up trucks heading north for
Soloy leave approximately every 30min. The last bus returning to David leaves Soloy at
around 4pm. Where you get off in the village depends on where you have agreed to meet
your guide.
ACCOMMODATION
Homestays are currently only arranged by a handful of families as many in the community
remain suspicious of tourists and tourism. Contact tourist coordinator and experienced
whitewater rafting guide, Juan Carlos Bejerano ( 6638 0944, carl-
[e-mail] ) ; alternatively get in touch with Adan Bejerano ( 6468 5249). Ac-
commodation is usually $10 per person per night with food costing $3-4 a meal.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Casa Laguna Las Lajas lagoon - left at the beach T-junction 6896 0882, casala-
gunapanama.com . Situated on the wildlife-rich lagoon, this restful B&B has three brightly
painted and cheerful rooms available (fan and private bathroom), one accommodating four
with private patio overlooking the garden ($110). Curl up with a book in a hammock or head
for the bea ch. Three-night minimum stay. Simple but tasty Italian home-cooking at reason-
able rates. $90